Category: MyLongWalk 2019

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Today I offer some statistics for #MyLongWalk2019

1 – French region walked through

1 – working monastery stayed in

2 – number of countries walked in

2 – number of achy feet

2 – number of hostals stayed in

3.7 – average speed in km/h for #MyLongWalk2019 including all stops

4 – municipal albergues stayed in

4 – Spanish autonomous regions walked through

5 – 3* or 4* hotels stayed in

7 – Spanish provincias walked through

10 – number of kms in taxi to avoid Burgos airport and industrial estates

20 – number of albergues privado stayed in

28 – number of km missed on day I was too ill to walk.

30 – total number of days walked

34 – total number of pilgrim nationalities I walked with

108 – total number of sellos in credencial

118 – number of Camino hierro photos taken (drain covers)

200 – plus 22 minutes is total hours walked

738.87 – total km walked

1,164 – total number of photos taken on #MyLongWalk2019

13,029 – total amount of vertical ascent in metres

1,165,635 – total number of steps walked on #MyLongWalk2019

As for today’s walk… very short. Into city past the random starfish and into an empty Praza do Obradoiro. Later it was packed. Picked up Compostela. Went back to Albergue and lay down after a shower. 4 hours later I woke. Unscheduled siesta. Body obviously needed it.

That’s all folks!

Monte de Gozo – Peregrino holding pen

5km from the end of my 750km #MyLongWalk2019 and I am staying in one of the more surreal places of the whole walk. It is now called Benvido Monte de Gozo but many experienced pilgrims refer to it disaffectionately as ‘prison camp’ or ‘refugee camp’. It is currently undergoing a massive overhaul and I am staying in one of the first refurbished Pabellons. The whole complex was built in 1993 for a Holy Year (this is any year when St James’s Day falls on a Sunday. It is July 25th. and the next one is 2021, these years are known as Xacabeo, hence the massive overhaul and obras). The creation of this auditorium and accomodation complex was also to co-incide with a Papal visit and the hundreds of thousands extra that this attracted. In a Holy Year there will be up to 3 times more pilgrims than a normal year. This may be over a million in 2021.

Monte de Gozo is the last hill before Santiago and translates as Mount of Joy, ancient pilgrims got their first thrilling glimpse of the cathedral as they walked down it’s slopes. Now you have to struggle to the very top to peer round the trees and development to make out the three spires in the hazy distance.

The pabellons or blocks as they really are, strike me as somewhere between a POW camp and Butlins – must add never been to either! Be assured my particular block has been refurbished and is fine. Work is ongoing on many of the other blocks. Four of them will remain Albergue Municipal rather than the privately run Benvido ones. Currently it’s facilities run to an ATM, a lavanderia (automatic laundry) and a very nice Estrella Galicia Bodega bar.

There is also a swimming pool complex and a massive auditorium, which was the venue for shenanigans on Lisa and my last visit to Santiago. To avoid Reading Festival we flew on to La Coruña and drove down here only to be kept awake by a full-on music festival at Monte de Gozo, headlined by Muse, light show, fireworks the lot!

It will, no doubt be much better when it is finished being renovated. The manager told me that will be in time for 2020 season, then the Holy Year onslaught that will follow in 2021. There are already signs of more on offer for future pilgrims who decide to rest up here at the ‘holding pen’, so they can walk the last 5km into the Praza do Obradoiro the next morning.

As for today’s walk…. it was the longest of the Camino for me. Most of the Turismegrinos stayed at Pedrouza which means a 20km+ walk tomorrow. I’ll be done and dusted, with Compostela in hand, well before they arrive. I set off well before dawn and a sneakily walked behind a French couple who were wearing head torches! Today’s odd stuff included a bar decorated entirely with Peregrino branded beer bottles; discarded shoes used as plant pots; a nice hierro; a bar proudly showing off the cross of Galicia; a massive frog; a caged pilgrim? and of course some cows.

The shell

Other than the flecha amarillo the most common symbol on the Camino is the scallop shell (or it’s diagramatic equivalent). They dangle from 99.9% of peregrino’s rucksacks for starters. Even the Decathlon kitted out Turismegrinos have theirs, all bright, white and new.

Mine hangs from my bag too, slightly irreverantly and seemingly quite unique on the Camino. Being black, rather than white, as is the norm. In Estella/Lizarra – way back in Navarra – a man who sold scallop shells, walking sticks and other Camino paraphernalia, chased after me to ask why I had painted my shell black. I told him I found it on the beach in Doñana and it was that colour naturally. He did not seem convinced. I am however, very pleased to have a shell that stands out from the crowd.

It is the other manifestations the shell takes as I walk the Camino that fascinate. Local councils use it with aplomb, private individuals decorate their homes with it, and obviously businesses that thrive on it, show it off proudly. It truly shows how much the people who live and work on The Way love the Camino.

As for today’s walk … long and busy. 34km. But now I am so close to Santiago it is just a case of getting the kilometres done. 34km more tomorrow and I’ll be virtually within sight of the Santiago cathedral towers. Today’s random assortment of unexpected things the Camino threw at me included; a strange piano keyboard to illustrate chemistry’s periodic table; a much more pleasant road sign for Santiago; more cows; the Guardia Civil’s mounted cavalry keeping the Camino safe; some amazing pulpo gallego in Melide that lived up to guidebook claims plus a house that someone is very lucky to live in.

Invasion of the Decathlon pilgrims

Say what you like about the masses of peregrinos that join the Camino at Sarria but they have certainly spent a huge amount of money in Decathlon in order to complete their 118km hike. There can’t be many small rucksacks left in the stores in Spain at this time of year. Almost everyone carrying one has the tell tale squiggle and Quecha emblazoned the nylon backpack.

Before I continue with this post, I confess I am walking in Decathlon shorts everyday on Camino, I also use their walking poles and one of my three pairs of socks are also their brand. I also possess, as does almost every pilgrim I have encountered at albergues, one of their microfibre, quick-drying towels. The washing lines are jam-packed with a multi-coloured patchwork of them, green ones, orange, real, blue purple, black, red, pink, yellow – there seems to be no end to combination of towel and trim. They dry very quickly, but are not great at their primary purpose of drying the body! This great multi-coloured Quecha invasion was evident from the moment I walked out of Sarria on Sunday. The bright array of coloured backpack rain covers was a sight to behold. They stretched as far as the eye could see. Moving like a giant, sponsored, multi-coloured worm into the mist and rain.

Today was the same, this time, as it was dry, the bags were uncovered and the colours slightly toned down. But I estimate over 75% of bags too small to have walked further than from Sarria were Quecha on the Camino today. There was also a huge proportion of these Sarria 118km pilgrims wearing Quecha or other Decathlon branded clothing and shoes. The sportswear megolith is taking over the Camino.

As for today’s walk … nice to be back to dry walking. It was certainly the coolest day of my Camino thus far, the sun broke through occasionally but the warmth was checked by a chilly wind. I kept my arm sleeves on all day. It is supposed to be heating up again through the week. Scenery wise today was like walking in the West Country – sometimes almost moorland, others times pine forest but all the time very, very green with lots of heather and gorse. Some horreos, crossed the rio Miño, which further west becomes the border with Portugal, a weird tortoise and an abandoned Bianchi : but most of all, all day ‘Tourismegrinos’ everywhere. Again queues for coffee were mind blowing compared to previous 3 and a half weeks. Very pretty little albergue for tonight – Paso de Formiga – Just 12 beds and not a bunk in sight!

34km tomorrow to get to Arzua, famous for it’s cheese apparently. Regarding the walk itself, just for some perspective, if I had walked north from Reading I would now be past Aberdeen!

Three people

There is great deal of alone time on the Camino, there is also a great deal of time spent in conversation with fellow peregrinos. This may be the first time you’ve met, it may be someone you spoke with or walked with a while the day before, or someone you met on day 1 and bump into every three or four days when your paths meet.

However, if you are doing the Camino alone, as I am, there is also a huge amount of ‘me’ time. I got thinking … if I could take any three people, alive or dead, on Camino with me – who would they be. Firstly a bit of a disclaimer, I have walked at least 75% of my Camino totally alone, and whilst I like meeting people and chatting, many of my favourite moments and times have been in splendid isolation.

So who would I bring… it would have to be a comedian, a storyteller/songwriter and someone truly inspirational.

I have thought long and hard about this, and have come up with a shortlist of 3 for both comedians and storytellers but just 2 truly inspirational people on my list. However, before I get onto those who made the cut, a special notable mention to Eddie Murphy in his Shrek role as Donkey. Having a donkey on Camino has it’s obvious benefits but on this occasion is excluded from consideration for my comedian as it is a fictional cartoon character.

3 comedians on shortlist; Robin Williams (Just the funniest person ever and would be able bring a whole array of characters to the Camino); Ellen de Generes (funny, shows great empathy, never shirks a challenge and happy to laugh at herself) Peter Kay (after Robin Williams, the man who has made me laugh out loud the most, he would love the vast spectrum of people you meet on Camino. A master of observational comedy)

3 storytellers/songwriters on shortlist; David Bowie (a vast back catalogue of songs to sing along to, but also an extremely creative mind and so many interesting stories to tell from 50 years at the top); Michael Palin (from Monty Python and all that nonsense, to his adventures as one of the foremost travel writers and presenters of the age, a wealth of experience. The epitome of the sublime to the ridiculous); David Attenborough (not really a storyteller but when he speaks the world listens. Would also be a great help knowing exactly what we are looking at. Just has a voice I love to listen to)

2 inspirational people on shortlist; Muhammed Ali (for whenever I need a pep talk or the proverbial ‘slap across the face’ the Greatest would certainly help get through most difficult moments); Barack Obama (Quite simply the finest speaker and inspirer of a generation I have ever heard. A true leader in every sense of the word, but also a remarkable human being)

My three pilgrim companions would be.

Ellen de Generes – a real people person who I think would genuinely enjoy the Camino experience and would not be phased by any of it. She has a great combination of being really funny but would also make a wonderful Camino companion.

David Bowie – quite possibly the most interesting entertainer of the my lifetime. So many amazing experiences and tales to tell. And who wouldn’t want to sing Starman, Heroes, China Girl, Rebel Rebel or Under Pressure … out loud … all the way across the Meseta

Barack Obama – for me the most remarkable human being for generations. Humble, dignified, intelligent, funny, caring and genuine. An ideal Camino companion for when the going gets tough.

What do you think?

As for today’s walk …. it was wet. Drizzly rain for most of the 24km. I passed through Sarria and as predicted by every guidebook and previous peregrino – it immediately got busy. Like leaving the quite country lanes of Berkshire and suddenly finding yourself on the M4 motorway. But more on the Sarria pilgrim tourists tomorrow. There were lovely stretched of path, more interesting ironwork and street art, a lovely old lady selling raspberries from her garden wall and I passed the 100km to go marker.

Ceña communal

One of my true highlights of Camino has been the many fantastic ceña communal I have been privileged to attend. These are basically when pilgrims staying at the albergue choose to eat together, and share a meal prepared by the hospitaleros. They are great chances to meet new people who have usually walked many of the same kilometers as I have that day. It also, absolutely knocks the spots off the ghastly menu Peregrino that lingers at bars and restaurants along the Camino de Santiago. Just before I wax lyrical about some of the best ceña communal I have shared – let me just explain the pilgrim menu. Usually €10 – €12 it consists of three courses – mostly something like this

  • Green salad or soup
  • Chicken, pork or ‘fish’ with fries
  • Yoghurt or ice-cream
  • Wine and water

And this is the same from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago. Even if you are lucky enough to get good menu Peregrino it is boring. Some people eat it every day! Back to ceña communal – price about the same as pilgrim menu, although some albergue ask for donativo for dinner. This means leave what you can afford as it helps to pay for the next day’s pilgrims. The bell rings at 7 and the showered and relaxed travellers head to the comedor and sit down. Sometimes there are familiar faces, other times there may be not one face you recognise, these are the best as you get to hear a whole new set of stories. In some albergue the hospitaleros will join and sit for the meal. There is often a very informal introduce yourself round-the-table session, fortunately the common language of Camino is English. Sometimes a brief blessing is given, if the albergue is run by a faith-based organisation. Or even a song!

The food is often from the garden of the albergue and is surprisingly, mostly vegetarian. The environmental conscience of the Camino again shows in this. Fresh fruit and vegetables dominate and local wine is served. Each one has been a unique and enjoyable experience. I expect tonight’s will be equally nice … although there are chickens running freely round the garden!

As for today’s walk … it was a relatively short day – 24km – and mostly downhill from Fonfria. I started a little later than normal, just 10 minutes before sunrise and was welcomed by a wonderful light as the morning sun lit the wooded mountains. Then, as I rounded the hillside, I was treated to the incredible sight of a valley cloaked in cloud below me. Awe-inspiring. I walked down through the mist to the valley floor and the relentless sun soon burned off the cloud … normal hot sunshine was resumed. I passed a 200 year old chestnut tree, my first horreo, some tiny chapels as well as many, many cows.

Tomorrow I head for, and through Sarria. This is the starting place for many Spanish pilgrims, as it is the minimum distance required to get a Compostela in Santiago – 118km. I expect the Camino to get much, much busier but as an antidote to this I have booked into tiny albergues for my last few nights as I get closer to Santiago.

Faith in humanity

Before setting off to St Jean Pied de Port to start my Camino, there were a few things that worried me. The feet one has been raised before – (just a note on the state of my feet – they are doing great right now, still tired, but just tired, no blisters or sores!), I was also worried about not being able to find anywhere to sleep … with a week to go the ‘It’s so busy in July and August, you’ll have to race for a bed’ hype has been totally disproven. Even without reservations I would have been able to stay in town or village of my choice.

My biggest concern, not a worry, was that the litter created by thousands of pilgrims would make it like walking through a giant basura – municipal tip! Spain, for anyone who has driven or cycled much here, is a pretty filthy country when it comes to roadside trash. Bottles and tins of water, soft drinks and beer/wine are biggest polluters. Cigarette packets also blight the landscape. However, much to my surprise, and excluding the urban sections, there has virtually zero litter. Excepting the masses of tissue paper that, as mentioned in an earlier post is like a back up waymarker, I can hardly remember seeing any deliberately discarded pilgrim trash. Just the occasional shred of wrapper from something and the odd water bottle, more likely dropped by accident than jettisoned. Well done peregrinos you have done the Camino proud. Whether this is the Camino population being more environmental or the clear push to be cleaner and greener by the regional government, it is certainly working. The Camino is a beautiful, natural place, often a wilderness, and as pilgrims we are just passing through. It is our duty to leave it as natural as possible for all the plants, critters, birds, lizards and all the elusive larger wildlife. I saw a piece of street art/graffiti on an underpass that sums it up. ‘Leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but memories’ …. here, here.

As for today’s walk… this was certainly the toughest day since Day 1 to Roncesvalles. 18km uphill to the Galicia frontier. In that 18km there were over 900m of vertical ascent. O Cebreiro was at 1286m! Add in the heat and some pretty tough surfaces underfoot, and I am one very tired pilgrim tonight. The views at the top made sure the all the sweat and effort was well worth it – that real top of the world feeling. I head further into Galicia tomorrow and hopefully see my first horreo.

Flores

Not many words today … I know nothing about flowers and flora in general. All I do know is that there are some beauties at the side of the Camino – and bearing in mind how hot, dry and dusty it is – they must be tough little buggers too. So some photos. ID any if you wish.

As for today’s walk… the start of the 30km climb up to the border with the province of Galicia at O Cebreiro tomorrow. The first half today wad through the picturesque vineyards of Bierzo, many vines already showing ripening dark purple Mencia grapes. This is the growing area of one of my personal favourite wines – Petit Pitticum. From Villafranca it was 8km along the old N-VI road up a river valley to the beautiful old albergue in Trabadelo, Casa Susi, where I am staying tonight.

Notice – no bunk beds! Amazing.

And finally – a genuinely decent size reptile today. Not one of the scurrying lizards that I see hundreds of a day. This was a proper foot long, nose to tip of tail, beauty. And it was pleased to pose for a picture.

Galicia – the spiritual third

It is the home of Santiago, the end of the camino and I am just one more whole day away from entering the final province of my Camino – Galicia….

Apparently the camino is split into thirds – the first being the physical third. I have to agree that scaling the Pyrenees and the journey across Navarra and La Rioja were taxing on the body – my feet in particular. It was also a complete journey into the unknown, having only walked two consecutive days previously for a total of 57km.

Then the mighty Meseta, with it’s big skies, endless corn fields and arrow straight paths alongside the omnipresent N120 road. This is the middle, mental third. As discussed previously, many choose to skip it and it is their loss. I am, however, very pleased it is behind me.

I am now in the final third, known as the spiritual third, which mostly comprises of Galicia. It’s similarity, both in terms of appearance and the nature of the people, lend to comparisons to celtic lands like Ireland, Wales and Brittany. I can’t wait to cross into Galicia.

For me, in addition the lure of Santiago – Galicia has many other rewards awaiting me

  • Tarta de Santiago
  • Estrella Galicia
  • Zamburiñas
  • Pulpo a Gallego
  • Horreos
  • Albarino
  • Empanadas de atun
  • San Simon cheese – tetilla
  • Fisterra … and much, much more.

More details on all of these in the final week.

As for today’s walk … I crossed the high point of the Camino today at 1520m and it was basically 15km up then 15km down into Ponferrada, the seat of the Knights Templar and their magnificent castle. There was also the slightly underwhelming Cruz de Ferro and a whole series idyllic villages from Rabanal all the way to Ponferrada.

Finally, good see the fleeting reappearance of the fossilized reptilian on the descent into the village of Molinaseca today.

Isotonic refreshment ….

After a long, hot, dusty dry hike, when all you have had to drink are couple of coffees and water from your bottle or hydration backpack bladder (which despite claims from manufacturers still tastes of plastic after over 3 months of use!). What do you want to drink as soon as that backpack is off your back? A cold beer, of course you do!

But, it is slippery slope. It is only 3 or 4 pm. There is showering, washing and thinking about food to be done. The first beer can be lethal … it tastes so good … the shower is delayed, the laundry too. Showering is not such a big deal but should be a priority as most peregrinos don’t smell too grand by mid-afternoon. The laundry, however, is a real priority. It needs to be done and on the line to dry ASAP after you arrive at the Albergue. A cold beer leads to another, and mundane, but essential tasks like laundry and showering drop down the timeline, often behind a snooze!

But the garden is beautiful, or there is a lovely shady terrace or you spotted a great looking bar before you booked into the Albergue. All of these dangers lurk and the call of that cool, refreshing Mahou, San Miguel or Estrella Galicia is hard to resist.

I have discovered a solution that works for me. Unfortunately the showering and laundry still have to be done. But in Spain the growing market for cerveza sin alcohol allows all the refreshment, flavour and enjoyment of real beer but is far more sensible for a mid-afternoon drink. Indeed a sin has been common while actually walking the Camino. It is hot, you’re tired, you need a pick me up or a little treat. A caña of alcohol-free beer is much more sensible in the scorching heat of a Camino afternoon. Salud.

As for today’s walk…. it was real short one today as I really wanted to stay at Refugio Gualcelmo in Rabanal del Camino. This albergue is run by the UK Camino de Santiago society The Confraternity of St James (CSJ or Camino Pilgrim as now branded). It was just 16km, so I decided I was able to add in 2.5km divert at the beginning to pass through Castrillo de los Polvazares – a totally restored Maragato village. The Maragato are a proud people who are thought to have settled in the area either as Phoenician or Berbers over a thousand years ago. They were famous for being muleteers, the medieval equivalent of HGV drivers, albeit with caravans of mules. From there it was a gradual 15km stroll up to Rabanal, all the time aware of the mountains, that await in next few days, closing in front of me.

Finally – remember the Italian that had walked from Milan… well today at CSJ Gualcelmo there is a chap from Belfast who decided to walk from home and has reached Rabanal. On his way he met up with another who has walked from Bristol. And Maggie, the hospitalero here is celebrating her 30th anniversary at the Albergue.

A Peregrino’s rucksack

Obviously the most common feature is the bag, be it rucksack or small daybag. Yes, a small daybag, as some people send their bag on ahead of them and travel light.

On the bag is the symbol that unites each and every one of us on the Camino. From those starting off from St Jean Pied de Port, those crossing the Meseta, to those travelling through Galicia, to those entering the Praza de Obradoiro in Santiago. Almost every backpack has a scallop shell dangling from it.

There are also many sandals and flip flops that swing from the bags of pilgrims in front. As the day/Camino goes on, the sandals are often replaced by the walking shoes – peregrinos will do anything to try and fool their feet that they are not really tired or sore.

Some fly the flag of their nationality on their bag. This is particularly popular with the pilgrims from Eastern European countries – I have seen fluttering flags from Croatia and many from Slovenia. Slovenians are obviously very proud of their young nation.

There are also sew on/iron on badges from around the globe, as well as various Camino badges including of course, flecha amarillo. And a wide variety of Camino pins.

Sticks, or walking poles that are not being used either dangle precariously or are neatly tucked into each side of the bag. The bungee cord strapping on most bags helps to store all matter of stuff the pilgrim deems too important to put in the bag. Most often this is food, water or discarded clothing. The irony is that it cannot be reached without removing the bag, so the item could be stored within!

The most useful parts of my bag are the two tardis-like compartments on the waist strap. These allow me to store phone and emergency charger unit on one side. Inhaler, coin purse, lip balm, and tissues on the other.

As for today’s walk… a relatively short day at just 23km but one of the prettiest of the Camino for me. Maybe this was as I’d finally left the Meseta, so the sight of more than a single tree, some greenery and some bends in the trail were almost too exciting for words. I passed through the very small city of Astorga, complete with it’s ornate cathedral, a few other splendid churches and it’s star turn – Gaudi’s Episcopal Palace. Then just a few kilometres on to Murias de Rechivaldo where I am staying at another amazing albergue.

Tomorrow begins the uphill section again as we move into the spiritual third of the Camino… more on that another daily blog post.

United Nations of Camino

Since leaving St Jean Pied de Port to walk my Camino de Santiago I have been amazed how many nations peregrinos come to Spain from. Each has their own reason for walking. Many are only able to do a short section due to work or life constraints. But everyone I have encountered has been an outstanding ambassador for their nation, and humanity.

English is the common language of the Camino, Spanish – it’s native tongue. But it has been a delight to walk along listening to Korean, Italian and French being spoken. These have been the most common other languages.

So far I spoken with, or walked with pilgrims from all these countries.

🇦🇷🇦🇺🇧🇧🇧🇫🇧🇲🇧🇷🇨🇦🇨🇳🇩🇪🇪🇸🇫🇷🇬🇧🇭🇲🇭🇷🇮🇪🇮🇱🇮🇹🇯🇵🇰🇷🇲🇩🇳🇱🇳🇿🇵🇱🇵🇷🇵🇹🇸🇮🇹🇼🇺🇸🇿🇦🇸🇪

Another long, tiring day today but rewarding in many ways. I have finally put the Meseta behind me and things are beginning to look greener again and lots more storks.

Another thing that pleased Iñigo greatly, was passing the 300km to go waymarker. Made the Santiago 790 sign seem a distant memory – of course the sign is distant now!

And best of all, tonight’s Albergue – Verde in Hospital de Orbigo was incredible. A donativo dinner of organic vegetarian food all made in house, and mostly sourced from their own garden.

UPDATE three more flags to add to the United Nations of the Camino

🇪🇨🇧🇪🇲🇹

Ecuador, Belgium and Malta

UPDATE #2 on walk from Arzua to Monte de Gozo I spoke with a couple pushing their tandem up a steep track. They were from Maracaibo on Venezuela. 🇻🇪

Grumbles

A quick post tonight as it’s Saturday night!

Today as I walked, my happy inner pilgrim spoke to me from within. Please note that he will now be named Iñigo, after the fantastic character in The Princess Bride movie and novel.

Iñigo told me of some of the few things that give him the hump on Camino. Here are they. I tend to agree.

Cyclists on downhill stretches

Walking downhill is just as treacherous as riding a bike. One of the reasons for wide tyres is so you get more control on loose surfaces. It really annoys Iñigo when cyclopilgrims want walkers to move off the worn track because they lack skill to control their bike.

Lights that go off while you are on loo.

This annoyed me a lot during my convalescence. Iñigo wonders is it really necessary to black out light when a gentleman (or lady) is at their most vulnerable. A few more minutes on the timer would not be to much to ask. I appreciate the environmental issues but you can only go so quick! No photo available, too dark!

Shower defects

Just a minor grumble, but one I share with Iñigo. Spain appears to only have a few places that do not have either a shower hose that leaks, a shower head that sprays in all directions except at you or a shower door that allows a decent percentage of the water out a across the floor. No photo available, decency standards.

Only one tap, and it’s the red one!

Most albergues only have one tap, most are cold. But occasionally it is a single hot one. Iñigo is put in a bad mood from the start of the day if he has to brush his teeth in warm water. No photo available, technically difficult and hot water and cold water look identical!

Banging head on top bunk

You can surely empathise with my Spanish friend on this one. How many times …

Shade, or lack of it.

Not so bad first thing but but mid-afternoon blimey it’s hot. There is virtually no shade on the Meseta, unless you are a mouse or a lizard. (UNESCO – how about funding a tree planting program rather than reflective signage? This could also offset a few more minutes electricity so toilet matters could be finished in light!)

Glad Iñigo got that off his chest. As for today’s walk … a steady and uneventful 23km to Leon. The thing that stood out the most for me was, having seen nothing but crusty, dry wheat fields for days, suddenly there was a river. A proper river, rather than a dried up riverbed.

Tomorrow I’m leaving the Meseta and heading towards the hills and on towards Galicia and all it’s greenery.

What it’s all about – Sellos

As for all pilgrims my documentary proof of walking from my start point to Santiago is my credencial – in effect a pilgrim passport. The credencial is then shown to the Pilgrim Office in Santiago, who then issue the Compostela, the official certificate for completing a Camino de Santiago.The basic idea is that at least once a day you get your credencial stamped with una sello – a stamp. The most obvious place to do this is where you stay. Indeed most hospitaleros ask for it along with your ‘real’ passport when you check in. Most municipal and parochial albergues will only allow those carrying a credencial to stay. It is also possible to get your pilgrim passport stamped at police stations, post offices, bars, restaurants, many stores, town halls … in fact, pretty much everywhere on the Camino has it’s own sello. Some of these are remarkably intricate and illustrate something about the town they are in. Others are very simple and verging on the dull! But it becomes a bit of an obsession and pretty much everyone ends up having to extend their credencial. Fortunately I brought two with me but will definitely need a third. One stamp a day is ok until you reach Sarria – 100km to Santiago – then to get your Compostela – you are required to get two each day. Apparently this is to deter people from using motorised transport to get their certificate!My first stamp was actually from St James’s Church in Reading! They say Camino starts from your front door.Below are my top 10 sellos so far! As well as a little personal viewpoint on them. They are in chronological order not order of preference.

Orisson – the first stamp on my Camino de Santiago.The Abbey at Illartz – a renovation project – even in the Pyreneen mist it was easy to see why it was a labour of love.Eunate – as this was my first, and will be the only, detour off Camino to see something from guidebook.El Cantero, Mañeru- just love that it is a shoe.Oasis Hogar de Monjardin – just the most amazing place to stay. Dutch-run and totally charming. The salt-water foot bath was so thoughtful.Convento Santa Elena Najera – divine pastries and elegant sello.Bar in Azofra – the Galicia cross reminds me of Tarta de Santiago.Albergue Ave de Paso, Grañon – loving the bird theme, plus I had a whole dorm to myself so no snorers or 4.30 wakers!Panaderia Las Cuevas, Atapuerca – amazing empanadas atun. Plus a stamp with bakery goods on!

Hijos de Caridad, Rabe de Las Calzadas – lovely little chapel with sweet old lady who desperately wanted me to have a medallion with Jesus on it.

Monasterio Santa Clara, Carrion de los Condes – the nuns, the bells, a sello with the convent, a scallop shell and the cross of Santiago on it, what more could you want…

PS. Today I walked past the halfway mark and more importantly for me I’m nearly through The Meseta … I can see some hills ahead and they be greener!

Even the mighty fall

Not that I claim to be mighty! I certainly haven’t felt anything close to half decent today.

Well, that caught me out. A rapid onset of sunstroke and dodgy belly meant that walking 29km was not an option. In fact it was pretty hard work walking to the nearest bar for a coffee this morning.

So my first stumbling block of the Camino – not in any fit state to walk today, I had two options. Stay another night with the kind nuns at Carrion de los Condes, they said I could recuperate there. Or I could travel on to next location and rest up there.

I decided on the latter as it meant not having to adjust my schedule or make up the distance in the upcoming days. So I took a taxi to Moratinos and spent most of the day sleeping and drinking water at San Bruno. Moratinos is the smallest village I have stayed in on Camino so far. No shop, nothing much just a couple of albergues, a bar, some ancient farm equipment and, of course, a outsized Iglesia. The Italian-run albergue was just what was needed. What could I have expected when Bruno himself bore an uncanny resemblance to an ageing Jedi! A big bowl of pasta and egg salad. Hopefully I can get better night’s sleep and resume the hike tomorrow.

The Meseta – the great unloved

Right now I am halfway across the Meseta. This is a huge swathe of high plain that runs from Burgos in the east to past Leon in the west. Approximately 900 meters above sea level for the most part, it is perhaps the least loved stretch of the Camino. Having walked across this expanse of wheat, sunflowers and windfarms, big fields, big skies and dry dusty trails, it is easy to see why some peregrinos decide to either take a bus or train directly from Burgos to Leon, or take a local bus or taxi for part of one of their days.

Those who chose to skip this remarkable 4-5 days walking really to miss out on some incredible vistas. The sunrises are amazing. The very rustic, if isolated, villages and towns really only exist today due to passing trade of the Camino. It is like stepping back in time to, I would presume, the life my grandparents would have lived – if they were Spanish. Some of the machinery I have seem is vintage indeed.

As it is August, most of the cereal crops have been harvested and, when made into flour, contribute to my morning tostada. Only sunflowers and a few asparagus fields split the wheat. No real livestock to speak of. Just lots of raptors and storks. And loads of mice or shrews early in the morning.

Yes it tough on the mind, as well as the feet. But I am pleased to say I’m showing the Meseta some love, a bit of reciprocation would be mighty pleasing.

I did however have all my laundry, two days worth, plus swim shorts and towel. It went away scrunched up in drybag and returned, a few hours later, perfectly folded on a chair outside my room. Silently delivered by a nun who must not be seen. €6 well spent

Today I am in Palencia, having left Burgos yesterday afternoon. Leon next.

Iglesia

The Camino is, even in it’s modern format, a religious pilgrimage. Catholics have been making the trip to Santiago for thousands of years. More recently the Camino has been attracting pilgrims from all countries, faiths and backgrounds. Many, like me, do not follow any religious beliefs, however even the most fervent non-believers cannot be impressed by the monumental religious buildings that are seen as you walk along ‘The Way’.

From the humblest, tiny chapel and ermitage to large parochial churches to the ostentatious majesty of the great cathedrals. In addition there a a great many statues, memorials and even ‘graffiti’ that are religious.

Small chapels and ermitage also dot the Camino. Some are still used, others left for pilgrims to visit and often leave memorabilia (this is something I gave not been able to get my head round). Some are no bigger than a cupboard, others just isolated in nature so no regular worshippers.

Each town on the Camino seems to have a church (many have more than one) which is much larger than needed to fit it’s population in. All are incredibly ornate from outside and pretty spectacular inside. All welcome pilgrims and most have a sello for the credencial. Then of course there or the massive Cathedrals, so far I have passed four cathedrals and have photographed two of them – Logroño and Burgos.

Tomorrow I head for the town of Carrion de los Condes which has no less than four monasteries/convents, one of which I will be staying in.

Finally here are a small selection of the many fascinating churches I have passed so far.

Places that guidebooks do no justice

We’ve all been there, the village or town that barely gets a mention in the guide or online, but absolutely knocks it out of the park. One of these places that springs to mind from my previous travels was Aviles. On the map, just a port on Asturias coast, the insignificant third point of the Gijon-Oviedo-Aviles triangle. The guide books could not be ‘wronger’ – Aviles is a hidden gem and I whole-heartedly urge every one of you reading this to visit there. Disclaimer – I am not being paid by Ayuntamiento de Aviles, however I am happy to be salaried if they wish! A wonderful old town jam-packed with trendy bars and restaurants serving modern Spanish cuisine at it’s best. Anyway, coming back from Asturias to the Camino, tonight I am staying in one such place. My guide book mentions it fleetingly, mostly extolling it’s Fuente and the healing powers it allegedly possesses. What they miss is the whole point of the place. San Bol is a place where there are no distractions. The Fuente is marvellous, if freezing cold, and should be raved about. However, what really makes its special is it’s remoteness and lack of modernity. Sitting by the Fuente with my feet absorbing it’s ‘medicinal powers’ may be the closest I get to what a medieval peregrino would have actually done on Camino.Most peregrinos decide to stay in the villages either side of San Bol – Hornillos del Camino or Hontanas – they really are missing something very special and, for me, unique so far on Camino. Our hospitalera, Lourdes, welcomed each and everyone of us as though we were her first guest of the summer. She then prepared us a magnificent salad starter and chicken paella, followed by a fantastic ‘creme brulee’ style dessert.Today was the first day on the Meseta. As expected there were harvested corn fields as far as the eye could see, the Camino trail disappearing miles ahead of the horizon, vultures circling (as if waiting for a expiring pilgrim. And of course it was hot. I’d better get used to it – it’s a long way to Leon yet!Here is a link to see where I have walked today. https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/user.do?id=4856669

Rest Day – public swimming pool

For most people in the UK, the prospect of spending a relaxing summer Sunday afternoon at the local swimming baths would make the toes curl. I have to agree, it is not something I would consider. Just the thought …. yuk! However, here in Spain, I am a real advocate of the Piscina Municipal. I would encourage all peregrinos to seek one out and use it. The one in the village of Sorbas in Almeria, where we spend some time, is beautiful, clean and relaxing. The ones I used in Girona last summer while cycling were extremely nice, as were those I have used in Picos de Europa and the Pyrenees. The format is always pretty much the same. A pool surrounded by lawns, plenty of shade either from trees, pergola or parasols. There will be clean and well-maintained changing rooms. There will be a bar or cafeteria serving drinks and simple food and snacks. The only think that differs is the size of the installation. The one today in Burgos had a maximum capacity of 1200 people. I imagine there were about half that there today at the busiest time. Again as we are in Spain, there was a mass exodus around 2.30 as the thought of lunch beckoned. Some families and groups brought picnics, old men sat at tables – playing cards, old ladies fanned themselves frantically in the shaded areas, small children tirelessly jumped in and climbed out of the pool. Everyone was content! So why is it so different to back in Britain? Obviously the weather helps a great deal. It is very different to our standard 25-meter indoor pools. Being outside in 30° sunshine makes everything seem better. The other factor is a sense of civic pride which helps to ensure that the facilities remain excellent for all to use. There was no smoking at all, no litter, the pool was immaculate, no floating hair (swim hats mandatory), lifeguards patrolled the pool and the surrounding areas and made sure there was no dangerous or anti-social behaviour.This pool is one that the Burgos ayuntamiento provide for it’s residents to use, as well as allowing visitors like me the opportunity to spend a relaxing afternoon for the princely sum of €4. It is open from 11am till 9pm and you can stay as long as you like. I am really looking forward to finding a few more, hopefully less busy (but it is Sunday), as I continue the Camino.No walking today, and OMG did my feet love it! I am sure I will feel some benefit tomorrow. I have of course ‘walked’ around the marvellous centre of Burgos. So here are a few snaps of some of it’s outstanding architecture and monuments.Tomorrow I’m leaving the city bustle fore something very different, a hermitage about 1km from the Camino which sleeps bad feeds just 12 peregrinos. Just before I sign off, yesterday, on the last climb up to that magnificent cross and view of Burgos and the Meseta, there was a brief reappearance of fossilized reptilian underfoot.

The F-word

For any Peregrino the over-riding concern is feet. Without them being fully functional the Camino is an no-go. It is the great un-asked question ‘How are your feet?’. Everybody wants to know where you have walked from today? Where are you stopping tonight? Where are you from? Are you going all the way to Santiago? The F-word is never approached.

My gut feeling is that everyone’s feet hurt, just in at a different point on the scale. Some have blisters that make putting one foot in front of the other virtually impossible. Others have tendonitis of the ankle or toes. Some have bad ankles. Some have let their toenails grow too long so when they walk downhill they cut into their shoes. Some have discovered that they should have broken in their €100 shoes/boots before setting off. Some have hotspots.

Everyone’s feet are sore by the end of the day – FACT. Just at a different point on the scale.

We all try our hardest to pamper them and swap stories of things wise folk have told us. We try everything but at the end of the day it’s simple. Walking 25km a day on hard trails and tarmac, up and down hills and mountains, for over a month is going to make your feet knackered!

Today’s walk started with a steep climb out of the village onto a 10km wooded plateau. This certainly would have brushed out any pilgrim cobwebs, for those who decided to stay up late for the Villafranca Montes de Oca concert which ran till 4am just outside the albergue. From the top it was a long, hot day onto Burgos including a breathtaking view of Burgos, and the looming Meseta, from the top of the last climb.

Rest day tomorrow so the feet get a well deserved rest after 12 days hard graft. Municipal Piscina in Burgos calls me!

👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣

HIERRO – my Camino so far in Ironworks

Hierro as iron as said en español. I have now been hiking for 9 days – 10 if you include the prologue walk up to Orisson from St Jean Pied de Port. I’ve never walked this much in my life. 227 kilometres in 9 days. But there are still 565km to Santiago. Reaching Burgos in next couple of days is my next target.

For today’s post I’m going to chart the journey so far in pictorial form using ‘my’ medium of drain covers and various Camino decoration. Please make this fun for me by voting for your favourite by commenting. I’ll choose a random winner and send you a little Camino souvenir from Burgos at the weekend! Game On! Enjoy…

Day 1 St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

Day 2 Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Day 3 Zubiri to Pamplona

Day 4 Pamplona to Mañeru

Day 5 Mañeru to Villamayor de Monjardin

Day 6 Villamayor de Monjardin to Viana

Day 7 Viana to Logroño

Day 8 Logroño to Najera

Day 9 Najera to Grañon

As for today’s walk … the departure from Najera was accompanied by rumble of thunder and flashes of lightning … which sure as 7 follows 6 … were followed by a pretty torrential downpour which turned the brown soil trail to a sludgy clay muck, it also created storm runoff that looked like the chocolate river in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. The vines really looked like they were enjoying this little first day of August drink. Then suddenly the vines were gone. Replaced by field after field of already harvested cereal crops – wheat, I assume. As I walked through Santa Domingo de Calzada and past one of it’s two Paradores I recalled the worst ‘cheese sandwich ever’ incident on my previous visit to the town. My albergue tonight is in the charming hilltop village of Grañon, which of course meant a 3km hill to get here! The reward however is a 28 bed (4 room) albergue with just 4 peregrinos so I have a room to myself.

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Buenos noches.

#Camino graffiti (street art)

Walking along the Camino you can’t help but notice the presence of graffiti. Indeed it is widespread across Spain, most prevalent in big urban areas. Despite the very rural nature of 90% of the Camino, graffiti is everywhere. In essence, the beloved flecha amarillo is graffiti itself. Almost every Camino waymarker or signpost is daubed with messages of good luck or some pilgrim’s name and date of passing by.

Most popular for the Camino ‘street artist’ are the underpasses that take the footpath beneath main roads, although these are not that common they are the easel for creative talent. Some of the designs are Camino related others just the more normal bright coloured ‘tag’ style artwork common worldwide. Also popular are the encouraging and spiritual messages penned by pilgrims to those following in their footsteps. ‘You are love(d)’, ‘follow your heart’ and the obvious ‘buen camino’ appear to be the current favourites, as well as ad-hoc directional advice.

In the cities the blend of Camino street art and modern graffiti is on very grand scale. Some is genuinely breathtaking.

As for today’s walk … just another hot, crusty, sunny day out through Logroño’s green suburbs, passed a wonderful embalse with hoopoes, swans with cygnets, egrets, massive greedy fish and a comedy squirrel. Then it was on through swathes of Rioja vineyards to Najera.

Next stop Grañon tomorrow.

Where to rest weary head, and feet ….

Most of the time on Camino is spent walking, or resting. In fact the only other things that really matter are food and water. Everything else, as they say, the Camino provides!

This means that a great deal of time is spent deciding where to stay, how far to walk, where to grab a coffee or breakfast, lunch, water and sellos of course.

The route pretty much takes care of itself, unless you are brave enough to venture ‘off piste’ to one of the many wonderfully described ‘must see’ guidebook detours. Most of these add considerably more to your daily distance than the 5km I did to Eunate a few days ago. So, you know where you are going but how many kilometres to walk? Municipal albergue, private albergue or hotel?- it is pretty complicated believe me. Pretty much the first questions a peregrino asks another when they meet in the albergue are … Where are you from? Where have you come from today? How many kilometres is that? How are your feet?

The obsession with deciding where to stay is all encompassing, but I have already realised that the hype about not being able to find a bed is just that – hype! As I write this, a group of 4 have come into the albergue at 1715 and they have plenty of beds left. Some of the tiny albergues may be full of course. But choosing the place for me is decided, firstly by the distance I want to walk, then by the size of the albergues in the destination. I have gone with a mixture of pre-booked places but with some non-reservas where a particular albergue attracted me.

Most albergues offer dormitory-style accommodation in bunk beds, it appears to be popular to have these in blocks of 4. Today, in Logroño, my dorm has about 24 beds in the room. Not too bad, and nothing compared to the mega-dorm at Roncesvalles with 100 or so in our room! Most also have handful of showers and some sort of laundry facilities. The great advantage of the combination of modern textiles and the spanish sun makes drying clothes very easy!

So far I have stayed in the following : Bayonne hotel; St Jean Pied de Port private albergue; Roncesvalles parochial albergue; Zubiri private albergue; Pamplona hotel; Mañeru private albergue; Villamayor de Monjardin parochial albergue; Viana hotel and today Logroño a municipal albergue. Each has it’s quirks and with the exception of the behemoth of Roncesvalles, I’d happy stay in all again. It has also become very evident that older buildings are much cooler at night than modern ones! If you want to know the names of the individual accommodation I have used then contact me directly.

As for today’s actual walk … a brief 10km stroll from Viana to Logroño was uneventful, it didn’t even warrant a coffee stop! It was, however, noteworthy for me for two occurrences, a border crossing of sorts and a first sighting of old friends. The border crossing meant that it was time to leave the province of Navarra, where I had been walking since leaving France, and enter La Rioja. This means we are really in wine-country now, Logroño is the capital of Spain’s premium wine-making region. A subject for a post another day I’m sure. When entering Logroño you cross the River Ebro, which although has it’s source less than 100km from the Atlantic actually flows almost 1000km east to enter the Mediterranean near Tarragona. On the far bank of the river I was delighted to see and hear the presence of white storks in their incredible nests. Having seen many of these on previous trips to Spain I was very pleased to my first of the Camino. I love these odd looking birds and am particularly fond of their amazing clanking beak greetings to their partner. It is something to behold.

Anyway, for today …. that’s all folks. Long day tomorrow through vineyard after vineyard.

Singing when no-one is listening

Modern gadgets are part of today’s Camino like it or not. Each night in the albergues the darkness is broken by peregrinos from all corners of the globe checking in on loved ones, catching up on news, looking at photos, looking at next day’s route, booking a bed, even reading a blog! The mobile phone is such a wonderfully powerful device that it has become the Camino de Santiago MVP. I could not survive without mine, well I suppose I could, but I don’t want to. For me it’s a super lightweight camera, a guide book, a room-booker, an atlas, music system all in addition to it’s primary purpose – speaking to people. Traditionalists may not want to read this but, as the very same traditionalists tell me it is “my Camino” then I’ll be gadgeted up as much as I like!

Today, first thing, I contacted my brother in Sydney by email and asked if he’d like a Skype chat when he’d finished at work. He texted back to see if it was ok 3 hours later … I had no other plans other than one foot in front of the other for next 7 hours.

I was happily walking along after about 10km singing to myself, quite loud and very out of tune, but I could see no-one in sight in front or behind. After about an hour of this, for the first time on Camino, I reached for my earphones and had a great sing-song for the rest of my day’s walking.

Then mid-afternoon I took my brother on a little bit of a Skype Camino in the comfort of his lounge in Australia. In fact, as ‘we’ approached Sansol, I told him he was navigating, to keep eyes peeled for the flecha amarillo and that I wanted a drink at a bar. He also said hello to fellow peregrinos from Croatia and the 1800km Italian pair, who were all resting up in the shade of the village. The wonders of modern technology enabled me to share this tiny part of my Camino. I even sent him a picture of ‘his’ sello.

As well as being able to speak to people in other time zones and listen to Stevie Wonder’s Superstition while clambering up another steep path on today’s ‘downhill’ route, the most useful thing on the phone has to be is it’s camera. Without this it would not be possible to share and preserve my wonderful memories. So I will say ‘poo-poo’ to the traditionalists, and happily keep snatching the evil device from my pocket to capture something amazing, amusing, odd or whatever. I may also partake in some more singing as I venture on west. After all “it’s my Camino”.

Last words of today’s post go to a poor gorrion – spanish word for sparrow- in Los Arcos. The tiny fledgling only had one leg and was hopping around the bar tables in the square, intermittently toppling over slightly. I took pity on the little thing and share my wonderful oat and ginger biscuit I had bought in the nearby baker. It appeared to be happy with my gesture, however, I got the sense it may ultimately be futile, and that I was just fattening it up for the local gato!

Hasta mañana and Logroño and it’s tapas …

Pequeña flecha amarillo

They’re everywhere … at least most of the time they are! Reassuring pilgrims by the hundreds every day, as they have done for years. A bit of Google research will inform you of the generous Galician pastor who first started painting them. The ubiquitous yellow arrow daubed on anything it’s artist can find, ideally an immovable object, always indicating the direction onwards towards Santiago. Some are more official than others. Some are more like waymarkers rather than actual arrows. Some towns and cities even embed them in their footpaths – this is very helpful and made the journey across Pamplona very easy.

The effiency of this network of route markers has made the map I brought redundant. The flecha amarillo and it’s various other guises has also meant that my use of google-maps and the such like has also been non-existent – almost. As peregrinos we become so dependent and trusting of being guided on our “Way” that, as was the case today for me in the last couple of kilometres, if we walk for much more than 250 metres without seeing one of our friendly little yellow helpers, we begin to doubt the Camino. However there is a saying “The Camino Provides” and sure enough after about a kilometre (all uphill and steep which exaggerated my feeling of doubt) another arrow appeared to reassure me I was still on the Camino de Santiago.

As for today’s walk … I’m really getting into it now, a great night’s sleep in the comfort of a modern city centre hotel helped recharge the batteries. From Pamplona it was uphill to Alto de Perdon through a windy, misty squally shower which meant the briefest of photo stops at the monument at the summit. After another black-run descent (no fossilized reptile this time just loose golf ball to tennis ball sized rocks) the weather picked up and my happy inner pilgrim seemed to make a decision for me. To take the 5km detour to the remarkable octagonal chapel at Eunate. I had read about it but not planned on visiting, indeed until the sign informing me of it’s location I didn’t even know it was on today’s route. Glad I went.

From there I passed through Puerte de la Reina – and at this point I must refer you back to one of my earlier posts! Full on shenanigans looked like they were about to begin. The hospitalera here in Mañeru told me it is like a “little running of the bulls but with baby cows”. I expect it will get messy! I’m do glad I had decided to do the extra 5km uphill to Albergue El Cantero even if the pequeña flecha amarillo almost let me down.

Today 30.8 km

So far 99.8 km

Santiago 692.2 km

El tiempo – the weather

Well today was a different kind of weather. I’m pretty sure that everyone who left St Jean Pied de Port on Tuesday or Wednesday woke up this morning, in Zubiri or one of the next few villages, and were delighted to see grey cloudy skies and feel the cool air. The mini-heatwave for us peregrinos is over, temporarily I’m sure, but the cool air and light showers gave everyone a spring in their step.

For most of who started from France on Wednesday, Pamplona is the logical night 3 stopover. The thought of another 28° night of restless sleep would have been hell, luckily I am staying in a proper hotel as a treat to myself – it’s bliss.

Back to the weather, Spain has a fascination with el tiempo, their news channels have weather bulletins every 5-10 minutes, extremely detailed too! Maximum, minimum temperatures, rainfall amounts in litres (never understood that) wind speeds and most obscure how much hotter or colder than yesterday it will be. Surely simple mental arithmetic would allow me to work it out. Yesterday it was 39°, today will be 24° but the kind presenter has an amazing map (all blue today as it shows everywhere cooler than previously) that they want to talk about … blah, blah, blah. I half expected to see the citizens of Pamplona, Iruña to give it’s Basque name, dressed in boots, coats and scarves when we arrived.

As for today’s walk a small group developed as I left Zubiri and we picked up others I recognised from earlier in the week. Apologies to the two lovely ladies from Poland/Quebec whose names I cannot recall. Also walked with peregrinos from Korea for a while. Met up with couple I ate with in Roncesvalles in one of my coffee stops where an american walker amused us all with his destination today – Poomploon! Most of the day was with Boston, Maryland and Montana – all people above have names but I am keeping identities relatively anonymous.

Highlights of the 22.8km from Zubiri to Pamplona were the guard of honour given to our group by about 30 or so Spanish teenagers! It was also amazing to stop and chat with Dan ‘The Way’ at his little stall. A very well-travelled local man who had even worked as a firefighter in Montana, as well as meeting Martin Sheen when they filmed The Way. The restoration project at Illaratz Abbey was also an amazing place to look in on.

Today 22.8km

69km walked so far

722km to Santiago

Danger – sleeping Alligator or Stegasaurus

Another hot afternoon, as I write I have been up since “before the birds”, more on that in a bit! I’ve completed day 2 from Roncesvalles Pilgrim Kingdom to the much more humble village of Zubiri.

I have already learned, and am not at all surprised, that I am not a huge fan of colossal communal dorms. There were about 100 people on my floor. By the time they had finished washing, watching Netflix and packing their bags, it was gone lights out time. But first, it was time for the monks to serenade us all to sleep over the speaker system. Guess what holy guys? I hated Enigma and all that Gregorian chanting! Next the snoring started, so in went my earplugs. However it was the heat and my own snoring that kept waking me! After what seemed like about half an hour of actual sleep, it all began again as they prepared to sneak out in darkness. Why do people trying to be quiet make so much noise? So I too got up, and left Roncesvalles before the birds had stirred. Feeling knackered, the sign informing me how stupidly far away I was heading, cheered me up no further, but at least it was cool.

It didn’t take long for my happy inner pilgrim to wake up. This happy inner pilgrim is the one that reminds me of all the great stuff, and how trivial most annoyances are. On I paced past the first cafe, unlike almost everyone else judging by the queue, and headed for Espinal and Bizkaretta, breakfast there would be fine. AT THIS POINT I’D LIKE TO APOLGISE IN ADVANCE FOR ANY BADLY SPELT PLACE NAMES – I’LL TRY MY BEST BUT PREDICTIVE TEXT AND SPANISH AIN’T GREAT, SO ANY BASQUE VILLAGES, LO SIENTO! My spirits were lifted by a couple of coffees, tostadas and some watermelon.

The walk progressed well. Pretty tough in places, lots of uphill for a downhill day! There were some animated Italian group conversations, were they arguing or not? a squad of Spanish teenagers complete with beat box blaring out Hotel California! and of course endless Buen Camino greetings. But overall a very pleasant day on amazing woodland trails and quiet lanes. Until, and here comes the crux of this post.

When ancient peregrinos planned the Camino did they not notice that the track they chose down into Zubiri, which is steep for around 3km, appears to be the exposed back of a giant, fossilized reptile. I suggested an alligator or dinosaur but it could easily be a dragon! It was treacherous in the dry, a drop of rain would make it almost impossible without falling! Day two and I feel lucky to be writing this in one piece, without a sprained ankle or worse! And they used to do it in sandals!

Hasta mañana, hasta Pamplona.

Roncesvalles – like a pilgrim Disneyland!

Today, all that slog yesterday seems a grand idea, feeling a little smug even. Hopping in the Express Burricot shuttle up to begin #MyLongWalk2019 for real was a masterstroke. Already having those hellish-steep 8km done and setting off fresh from #Orisson felt wonderful.

From the albergue up to the frontier at Col Lepoeder the hike was everything I imagined and hoped Camino would be. Amazing vistas, swooping eagles, kites and vultures, typical barren Pyreneen mountain tops, shady, dense ancient woodlands and good-spirited peregrinos – Buen Camino all!

Then after 3 hours of uphill on roads, through meadows and clambering up rocky scree – the spires of Roncesvalles Monastery appeared far below me … like the Magic Kingdom … in the distance. All turreted and mythical looking, as if some medieval architect had the amazing foresight to create a place every Peregrino would want to stay in. It really is an amazing place, all historic and gothic looking from outside, flatpacked ikea-like functionality inside. But the people are what make the place, pilgrims and hospitaleros all mingling happily. BUEN CAMINO

Finally, for today … nothing beat a refreshing natural foot spa … a tan line is also starting to show!

Hasta mañana

Camino prologue

Well so much for sitting under a tree relaxing. With the scorching heat I decided that it would perhaps be a good idea to walk first 7km to Orisson today, without my rucksack, then start again from here again tomorrow morning which makes the hike over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles just a mere 17.6km. Apparently this first bit I’ve done is the toughest bit – we’ll see!

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St Jean Pied de Port

This morning it is already 27° at 930 and it is expected to hit 41/42 mid-afternoon. So I plan to spend most of my day sitting under a tree snoozing contently! I’m sure it will actually be spent mostly sweating profusely! Will also go down to the river and check that out, it looks refreshing but I bet it’s freezing!

My first albergue is here in #SJPP which is a bit like one of the London rail stations, everyone going somewhere, or arriving from somewhere. The town bustles, but with pilgrims and day-trippers rather than commuters. It’s traders have all the things you could possibly need for Camino, though not sure how bad your planning would need to be to have to buy boots or shoes here! I had a wonderful communal vegetarian meal with the other 15 or so pilgrims staying here … some were mid-camino, and had started in France or Switzerland. Some like me were starting here in #SJPP and one, from San Sebastian, had finished his – walking 40 days from Puy-en-Velay in eastern France. Even though most are starting today I’m sure our paths will cross again in the next few days. Pilgrims from Canada, Korea, France, Germany, Italy, Poland and Spain. Incredible. From the first night I am already beginning to get what #Camino is all about.

Today is last day of relaxing before #MyLongWalk2019 begins. If the walk from the village to this albergue (which is the Camino de Santiago) is anything to go by, tomorrow may be brutal! For now I’m just able enjoy the views!

Bayonne arrivé and Shenanigans (almost)

After over 12 months of preparation I am finally on my way. A hassle-free flight from Gatwick, albeit with a upgrade into the no-kids lounge as it was bedlam in the terminal, saw me arrive in Biarritz mid-afternoon yesterday. Bayonne, where then train to St Jean Pied de Port leave from, is a old city that Lisa and I have visited before. I really like it. So before I head off for #MyLongWalk2019 I thought I’d get my credencial stamped at the cathedral.

However, and this seems to happen quite often during my travels, there is growing excitement here in Bayonne. It appears that I have arrived (and will fortunately leave) just a day or two before Fêtes Bayonne. The tell tale signs are all around. Last minute roadworks, bar refits, stage construction. Red and White must be the colours! Temporary bars and there accompanying toilet blocks, banners and posters everywhere, the fun fair has arrived this morning and the souvenir stalls are trading. Usually Lisa and I arrive mid-shenanigans, into total chaos, totally unsuspecting. I’m glad I’m moving on, although it would be fun, as day 1 of Camino with that in my system would be disastrous.

Oh and btw there is a three day heatwave about to hit the Pyrenees – 35° plus ….

Not long now!

As I write this the big countdown number on the blog says 36 days till #MyLongWalk2019 – it only seems like yesterday I booked my flight to Biarritz – booked on January 9th! In fact, it doesn’t seem that long ago that I decided that the end of July 2019 was the time to set off – I think I finally committed after my last cycle trip abroad last July!

June has been a chance to get some walking in – and finally decide on which of the three pairs of shoes I have been ‘wearing in’ I will actually walk the Camino in. More of that later!

Back at the end of May I went for 2 days walking in Belgium with the aim of finding the grave of Sydney Henry George (see previous post Practice and a very personal pilgrimage). The Commonwealth War Graves of Ypres (Ieper) and the surrounding Flanders countryside are some of the most beautiful, yet thought-provoking, places I have ever been. They are also places for contemplation and gratitude for the greatest of sacrifice that allows people like me to go on Camino. I found Private George’s name on the Tyne Cot Memorial and laid a small stone from our garden at the base of the panel his name appears on. I was also privileged and humbled to attend – on two occasions – The Last Post ceremony at the Menen Gate in Ieper.

Tyne Cot gate
Tyne Cot
Sydney Henry George RIP
The Last Post, Menen Gate, Ieper

After allowing my feet a couple of weeks to recover (the 5° wedges given to me to insert into my shoes by the podiatrist gave me incredibly sore heels – we have dropped down to 3° now and all seems fine!) I headed out on a hike on another of the great ancient routes that are local to Reading, The Ridgeway. A beautiful walk from Goring to Didcot via the chalk downland trail, then down to Blewbury before train home.

This past weekend I managed a double header – walking both Saturday and Sunday – although both were a little shy of 20km! Firstly it was the latest leg of the St James Way trail with the ‘Reading peregrinos’ from Kings Worthy to Eastleigh via Winchester Cathedral, The Hospital of St Cross and the Itchen Way. A fine day out with surprise appearances from The Flying Scotsman, a Model T Ford and a Spitfire! Sunday was also spent walking a riverside trail – the Blackwater Valley Path from Shinfield to Crowthorne.

Finally, the shoe dilemma appears to have been resolved. It appears that the shoes that are most comfortable and create no hotspots, blisters or sore toes are my Hoka One One Challengers. These are actually running shoes but, as I have discovered on many forums, they are sworn by for many Camino veterans.

Hoka One One Challenger – my Camino shoe of choice, eventually!