Tag: Scallop

The shell

Other than the flecha amarillo the most common symbol on the Camino is the scallop shell (or it’s diagramatic equivalent). They dangle from 99.9% of peregrino’s rucksacks for starters. Even the Decathlon kitted out Turismegrinos have theirs, all bright, white and new.

Mine hangs from my bag too, slightly irreverantly and seemingly quite unique on the Camino. Being black, rather than white, as is the norm. In Estella/Lizarra – way back in Navarra – a man who sold scallop shells, walking sticks and other Camino paraphernalia, chased after me to ask why I had painted my shell black. I told him I found it on the beach in Doñana and it was that colour naturally. He did not seem convinced. I am however, very pleased to have a shell that stands out from the crowd.

It is the other manifestations the shell takes as I walk the Camino that fascinate. Local councils use it with aplomb, private individuals decorate their homes with it, and obviously businesses that thrive on it, show it off proudly. It truly shows how much the people who live and work on The Way love the Camino.

As for today’s walk … long and busy. 34km. But now I am so close to Santiago it is just a case of getting the kilometres done. 34km more tomorrow and I’ll be virtually within sight of the Santiago cathedral towers. Today’s random assortment of unexpected things the Camino threw at me included; a strange piano keyboard to illustrate chemistry’s periodic table; a much more pleasant road sign for Santiago; more cows; the Guardia Civil’s mounted cavalry keeping the Camino safe; some amazing pulpo gallego in Melide that lived up to guidebook claims plus a house that someone is very lucky to live in.

A Peregrino’s rucksack

Obviously the most common feature is the bag, be it rucksack or small daybag. Yes, a small daybag, as some people send their bag on ahead of them and travel light.

On the bag is the symbol that unites each and every one of us on the Camino. From those starting off from St Jean Pied de Port, those crossing the Meseta, to those travelling through Galicia, to those entering the Praza de Obradoiro in Santiago. Almost every backpack has a scallop shell dangling from it.

There are also many sandals and flip flops that swing from the bags of pilgrims in front. As the day/Camino goes on, the sandals are often replaced by the walking shoes – peregrinos will do anything to try and fool their feet that they are not really tired or sore.

Some fly the flag of their nationality on their bag. This is particularly popular with the pilgrims from Eastern European countries – I have seen fluttering flags from Croatia and many from Slovenia. Slovenians are obviously very proud of their young nation.

There are also sew on/iron on badges from around the globe, as well as various Camino badges including of course, flecha amarillo. And a wide variety of Camino pins.

Sticks, or walking poles that are not being used either dangle precariously or are neatly tucked into each side of the bag. The bungee cord strapping on most bags helps to store all matter of stuff the pilgrim deems too important to put in the bag. Most often this is food, water or discarded clothing. The irony is that it cannot be reached without removing the bag, so the item could be stored within!

The most useful parts of my bag are the two tardis-like compartments on the waist strap. These allow me to store phone and emergency charger unit on one side. Inhaler, coin purse, lip balm, and tissues on the other.

As for today’s walk… a relatively short day at just 23km but one of the prettiest of the Camino for me. Maybe this was as I’d finally left the Meseta, so the sight of more than a single tree, some greenery and some bends in the trail were almost too exciting for words. I passed through the very small city of Astorga, complete with it’s ornate cathedral, a few other splendid churches and it’s star turn – Gaudi’s Episcopal Palace. Then just a few kilometres on to Murias de Rechivaldo where I am staying at another amazing albergue.

Tomorrow begins the uphill section again as we move into the spiritual third of the Camino… more on that another daily blog post.

Camino destiny?

I bought this St James Cross pendant in one of the souvenir shops in Santiago on a Galicia holiday many moons ago. It was on that trip that I first witnessed the remarkable blend of joy, exhaustion and camaraderie of dishevelled pilgrims in the Praza de Obradoiro. I knew of the Camino a little then, but that was the first of the camino seeds in my head. So it was with great joy that I found the little red cross in amongst some old bits and bobs in a drawer last week – now I am more a scientist than a believer, but I do believe in fate – this little cross was bought ages ago, has sat in the darkest recesses of a drawer for over 10 years and was meant to be found at this exact time. The little red cross was always destined to make the journey back to Santiago. So I set about attaching it to my favourite scallop shell, a grey black one from the incredible, long, unspoilt sandy beach of Mazagon, Doñana in Cadiz. Perhaps it too was destined for more than just being washed up, picked up, looked at momentarily and discarded like so many others. So I have my own very personal pilgrim scallop shell attached to my backpack. It is strange but it has already made me feel like a ‘peregrino’.

 #MyLongWalk2019 #CaminoDeSantiago #BuenCamino

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