Flores

Not many words today … I know nothing about flowers and flora in general. All I do know is that there are some beauties at the side of the Camino – and bearing in mind how hot, dry and dusty it is – they must be tough little buggers too. So some photos. ID any if you wish.

As for today’s walk… the start of the 30km climb up to the border with the province of Galicia at O Cebreiro tomorrow. The first half today wad through the picturesque vineyards of Bierzo, many vines already showing ripening dark purple Mencia grapes. This is the growing area of one of my personal favourite wines – Petit Pitticum. From Villafranca it was 8km along the old N-VI road up a river valley to the beautiful old albergue in Trabadelo, Casa Susi, where I am staying tonight.

Notice – no bunk beds! Amazing.

And finally – a genuinely decent size reptile today. Not one of the scurrying lizards that I see hundreds of a day. This was a proper foot long, nose to tip of tail, beauty. And it was pleased to pose for a picture.

Grumbles

A quick post tonight as it’s Saturday night!

Today as I walked, my happy inner pilgrim spoke to me from within. Please note that he will now be named Iñigo, after the fantastic character in The Princess Bride movie and novel.

Iñigo told me of some of the few things that give him the hump on Camino. Here are they. I tend to agree.

Cyclists on downhill stretches

Walking downhill is just as treacherous as riding a bike. One of the reasons for wide tyres is so you get more control on loose surfaces. It really annoys Iñigo when cyclopilgrims want walkers to move off the worn track because they lack skill to control their bike.

Lights that go off while you are on loo.

This annoyed me a lot during my convalescence. Iñigo wonders is it really necessary to black out light when a gentleman (or lady) is at their most vulnerable. A few more minutes on the timer would not be to much to ask. I appreciate the environmental issues but you can only go so quick! No photo available, too dark!

Shower defects

Just a minor grumble, but one I share with Iñigo. Spain appears to only have a few places that do not have either a shower hose that leaks, a shower head that sprays in all directions except at you or a shower door that allows a decent percentage of the water out a across the floor. No photo available, decency standards.

Only one tap, and it’s the red one!

Most albergues only have one tap, most are cold. But occasionally it is a single hot one. Iñigo is put in a bad mood from the start of the day if he has to brush his teeth in warm water. No photo available, technically difficult and hot water and cold water look identical!

Banging head on top bunk

You can surely empathise with my Spanish friend on this one. How many times …

Shade, or lack of it.

Not so bad first thing but but mid-afternoon blimey it’s hot. There is virtually no shade on the Meseta, unless you are a mouse or a lizard. (UNESCO – how about funding a tree planting program rather than reflective signage? This could also offset a few more minutes electricity so toilet matters could be finished in light!)

Glad Iñigo got that off his chest. As for today’s walk … a steady and uneventful 23km to Leon. The thing that stood out the most for me was, having seen nothing but crusty, dry wheat fields for days, suddenly there was a river. A proper river, rather than a dried up riverbed.

Tomorrow I’m leaving the Meseta and heading towards the hills and on towards Galicia and all it’s greenery.