Another hot afternoon, as I write I have been up since “before the birds”, more on that in a bit! I’ve completed day 2 from Roncesvalles Pilgrim Kingdom to the much more humble village of Zubiri.
I have already learned, and am not at all surprised, that I am not a huge fan of colossal communal dorms. There were about 100 people on my floor. By the time they had finished washing, watching Netflix and packing their bags, it was gone lights out time. But first, it was time for the monks to serenade us all to sleep over the speaker system. Guess what holy guys? I hated Enigma and all that Gregorian chanting! Next the snoring started, so in went my earplugs. However it was the heat and my own snoring that kept waking me! After what seemed like about half an hour of actual sleep, it all began again as they prepared to sneak out in darkness. Why do people trying to be quiet make so much noise? So I too got up, and left Roncesvalles before the birds had stirred. Feeling knackered, the sign informing me how stupidly far away I was heading, cheered me up no further, but at least it was cool.
It didn’t take long for my happy inner pilgrim to wake up. This happy inner pilgrim is the one that reminds me of all the great stuff, and how trivial most annoyances are. On I paced past the first cafe, unlike almost everyone else judging by the queue, and headed for Espinal and Bizkaretta, breakfast there would be fine. AT THIS POINT I’D LIKE TO APOLGISE IN ADVANCE FOR ANY BADLY SPELT PLACE NAMES – I’LL TRY MY BEST BUT PREDICTIVE TEXT AND SPANISH AIN’T GREAT, SO ANY BASQUE VILLAGES, LO SIENTO! My spirits were lifted by a couple of coffees, tostadas and some watermelon.
The walk progressed well. Pretty tough in places, lots of uphill for a downhill day! There were some animated Italian group conversations, were they arguing or not? a squad of Spanish teenagers complete with beat box blaring out Hotel California! and of course endless Buen Camino greetings. But overall a very pleasant day on amazing woodland trails and quiet lanes. Until, and here comes the crux of this post.
When ancient peregrinos planned the Camino did they not notice that the track they chose down into Zubiri, which is steep for around 3km, appears to be the exposed back of a giant, fossilized reptile. I suggested an alligator or dinosaur but it could easily be a dragon! It was treacherous in the dry, a drop of rain would make it almost impossible without falling! Day two and I feel lucky to be writing this in one piece, without a sprained ankle or worse! And they used to do it in sandals!
Hasta mañana, hasta Pamplona.
My Long Walk 2019 