heat – My Long Walk 2019

Roncesvalles – like a pilgrim Disneyland!

Today, all that slog yesterday seems a grand idea, feeling a little smug even. Hopping in the Express Burricot shuttle up to begin #MyLongWalk2019 for real was a masterstroke. Already having those hellish-steep 8km done and setting off fresh from #Orisson felt wonderful.

From the albergue up to the frontier at Col Lepoeder the hike was everything I imagined and hoped Camino would be. Amazing vistas, swooping eagles, kites and vultures, typical barren Pyreneen mountain tops, shady, dense ancient woodlands and good-spirited peregrinos – Buen Camino all!

Then after 3 hours of uphill on roads, through meadows and clambering up rocky scree – the spires of Roncesvalles Monastery appeared far below me … like the Magic Kingdom … in the distance. All turreted and mythical looking, as if some medieval architect had the amazing foresight to create a place every Peregrino would want to stay in. It really is an amazing place, all historic and gothic looking from outside, flatpacked ikea-like functionality inside. But the people are what make the place, pilgrims and hospitaleros all mingling happily. BUEN CAMINO

Finally, for today … nothing beat a refreshing natural foot spa … a tan line is also starting to show!

Hasta mañana

Camino prologue

Well so much for sitting under a tree relaxing. With the scorching heat I decided that it would perhaps be a good idea to walk first 7km to Orisson today, without my rucksack, then start again from here again tomorrow morning which makes the hike over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles just a mere 17.6km. Apparently this first bit I’ve done is the toughest bit – we’ll see!

St Jean Pied de Port

This morning it is already 27° at 930 and it is expected to hit 41/42 mid-afternoon. So I plan to spend most of my day sitting under a tree snoozing contently! I’m sure it will actually be spent mostly sweating profusely! Will also go down to the river and check that out, it looks refreshing but I bet it’s freezing!

My first albergue is here in #SJPP which is a bit like one of the London rail stations, everyone going somewhere, or arriving from somewhere. The town bustles, but with pilgrims and day-trippers rather than commuters. It’s traders have all the things you could possibly need for Camino, though not sure how bad your planning would need to be to have to buy boots or shoes here! I had a wonderful communal vegetarian meal with the other 15 or so pilgrims staying here … some were mid-camino, and had started in France or Switzerland. Some like me were starting here in #SJPP and one, from San Sebastian, had finished his – walking 40 days from Puy-en-Velay in eastern France. Even though most are starting today I’m sure our paths will cross again in the next few days. Pilgrims from Canada, Korea, France, Germany, Italy, Poland and Spain. Incredible. From the first night I am already beginning to get what #Camino is all about.

Today is last day of relaxing before #MyLongWalk2019 begins. If the walk from the village to this albergue (which is the Camino de Santiago) is anything to go by, tomorrow may be brutal! For now I’m just able enjoy the views!