The shell

Other than the flecha amarillo the most common symbol on the Camino is the scallop shell (or it’s diagramatic equivalent). They dangle from 99.9% of peregrino’s rucksacks for starters. Even the Decathlon kitted out Turismegrinos have theirs, all bright, white and new.

Mine hangs from my bag too, slightly irreverantly and seemingly quite unique on the Camino. Being black, rather than white, as is the norm. In Estella/Lizarra – way back in Navarra – a man who sold scallop shells, walking sticks and other Camino paraphernalia, chased after me to ask why I had painted my shell black. I told him I found it on the beach in Doñana and it was that colour naturally. He did not seem convinced. I am however, very pleased to have a shell that stands out from the crowd.

It is the other manifestations the shell takes as I walk the Camino that fascinate. Local councils use it with aplomb, private individuals decorate their homes with it, and obviously businesses that thrive on it, show it off proudly. It truly shows how much the people who live and work on The Way love the Camino.

As for today’s walk … long and busy. 34km. But now I am so close to Santiago it is just a case of getting the kilometres done. 34km more tomorrow and I’ll be virtually within sight of the Santiago cathedral towers. Today’s random assortment of unexpected things the Camino threw at me included; a strange piano keyboard to illustrate chemistry’s periodic table; a much more pleasant road sign for Santiago; more cows; the Guardia Civil’s mounted cavalry keeping the Camino safe; some amazing pulpo gallego in Melide that lived up to guidebook claims plus a house that someone is very lucky to live in.

HIERRO – my Camino so far in Ironworks

Hierro as iron as said en español. I have now been hiking for 9 days – 10 if you include the prologue walk up to Orisson from St Jean Pied de Port. I’ve never walked this much in my life. 227 kilometres in 9 days. But there are still 565km to Santiago. Reaching Burgos in next couple of days is my next target.

For today’s post I’m going to chart the journey so far in pictorial form using ‘my’ medium of drain covers and various Camino decoration. Please make this fun for me by voting for your favourite by commenting. I’ll choose a random winner and send you a little Camino souvenir from Burgos at the weekend! Game On! Enjoy…

Day 1 St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

Day 2 Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Day 3 Zubiri to Pamplona

Day 4 Pamplona to Mañeru

Day 5 Mañeru to Villamayor de Monjardin

Day 6 Villamayor de Monjardin to Viana

Day 7 Viana to Logroño

Day 8 Logroño to Najera

Day 9 Najera to Grañon

As for today’s walk … the departure from Najera was accompanied by rumble of thunder and flashes of lightning … which sure as 7 follows 6 … were followed by a pretty torrential downpour which turned the brown soil trail to a sludgy clay muck, it also created storm runoff that looked like the chocolate river in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. The vines really looked like they were enjoying this little first day of August drink. Then suddenly the vines were gone. Replaced by field after field of already harvested cereal crops – wheat, I assume. As I walked through Santa Domingo de Calzada and past one of it’s two Paradores I recalled the worst ‘cheese sandwich ever’ incident on my previous visit to the town. My albergue tonight is in the charming hilltop village of Grañon, which of course meant a 3km hill to get here! The reward however is a 28 bed (4 room) albergue with just 4 peregrinos so I have a room to myself.

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Buenos noches.

Looking down too…

As you will know if you have read my earlier post about Ironworks, I like a good drain cover. Of course this means that I often look down, as well as at all the beauty that surrounds us peregrinos on the Camino everyday. Obviously the ironwork is most often found in cities, larger towns as well as sometimes in smaller places and even villages. I have already seen a few nice examples and have only been away a week.

However today I walked alone for much of the day, it was nice and gave me lots of time to listen to nature and look down as I walked through the Navarra countryside. As a walked from the village of Cirauqui, I was totally blown-away with the astonishing ancient “cobblestone” camino beneath my feet. I tried in my head to think how to approximate the number of peregrinos that may have trodden before me … assuming

Sorry, had to stop writing as two Italians have just arrived, nothing unusual there, except they have walked from Varese, 1800km so far! They left at the start of May! Respect. My feet hurt less almost immediately!

OK, back to assuming a conservative estimate of 100 a day (averaged out over the year – no idea if this is realistic but it was the figure I went with. That is just under 40,000 per year. Today the Camino is hugely popular as it was in the middle ages but not so many years ago numbers were much less. Anyway just going back 1066 (a date that we all recall) – by my very rough calculations, this would make 35 million pilgrims. My mind was blown. This particular bit of Camino was, for me, sublimely beautiful.

Today’s walk, as I have mentioned, was a very peaceful one. All the hype about being so busy in July and August, I’d be surprised if I saw more than 30 fellow peregrinos all day, And when I arrived here at the albergue there was just a single person already here. Best of all the hospitalero offered a salt-water foot bath on arrival.

As well as the ancient highways, highlights of today were the Ermita San Miquel, the arch in Estella, Fuente del Vino at Irache and a, fortunately brief, reappearance of the fossilized reptile of the Camino!

Hasta mañana.

#MyLongWalk2019 Ironworks

As Dave Grohl says at the start of the classic Best of You -“I’ve got another confession to make” – well I have a confession to make rather than another one! I have a pretty nerdy fascination with something rather trampled on and mundane. The humble Spanish manhole cover.

Each city and town – and many villages too – seems to have a specially designed and forged design on the theirs . It looks like civic pride amongst Spanish manhole cover designers may be bordering on competitive! So on my camino I will be trying to chronicle all the civic ironworks that I see (or tread on) during the 800km hike. I have posted a couple of examples from previous trips to show the variety of designs from simple to quite intricate! The photos will be on my google album which can be found here IRONWORKS PHOTOS

Another thing to distract me from the large number of days, kms and steps remaining till I can find a manhole cover in the great Cathedral square of Santiago de Compostela.