Tag: Albergue

Flores

Not many words today … I know nothing about flowers and flora in general. All I do know is that there are some beauties at the side of the Camino – and bearing in mind how hot, dry and dusty it is – they must be tough little buggers too. So some photos. ID any if you wish.

As for today’s walk… the start of the 30km climb up to the border with the province of Galicia at O Cebreiro tomorrow. The first half today wad through the picturesque vineyards of Bierzo, many vines already showing ripening dark purple Mencia grapes. This is the growing area of one of my personal favourite wines – Petit Pitticum. From Villafranca it was 8km along the old N-VI road up a river valley to the beautiful old albergue in Trabadelo, Casa Susi, where I am staying tonight.

Notice – no bunk beds! Amazing.

And finally – a genuinely decent size reptile today. Not one of the scurrying lizards that I see hundreds of a day. This was a proper foot long, nose to tip of tail, beauty. And it was pleased to pose for a picture.

Isotonic refreshment ….

After a long, hot, dusty dry hike, when all you have had to drink are couple of coffees and water from your bottle or hydration backpack bladder (which despite claims from manufacturers still tastes of plastic after over 3 months of use!). What do you want to drink as soon as that backpack is off your back? A cold beer, of course you do!

But, it is slippery slope. It is only 3 or 4 pm. There is showering, washing and thinking about food to be done. The first beer can be lethal … it tastes so good … the shower is delayed, the laundry too. Showering is not such a big deal but should be a priority as most peregrinos don’t smell too grand by mid-afternoon. The laundry, however, is a real priority. It needs to be done and on the line to dry ASAP after you arrive at the Albergue. A cold beer leads to another, and mundane, but essential tasks like laundry and showering drop down the timeline, often behind a snooze!

But the garden is beautiful, or there is a lovely shady terrace or you spotted a great looking bar before you booked into the Albergue. All of these dangers lurk and the call of that cool, refreshing Mahou, San Miguel or Estrella Galicia is hard to resist.

I have discovered a solution that works for me. Unfortunately the showering and laundry still have to be done. But in Spain the growing market for cerveza sin alcohol allows all the refreshment, flavour and enjoyment of real beer but is far more sensible for a mid-afternoon drink. Indeed a sin has been common while actually walking the Camino. It is hot, you’re tired, you need a pick me up or a little treat. A caña of alcohol-free beer is much more sensible in the scorching heat of a Camino afternoon. Salud.

As for today’s walk…. it was real short one today as I really wanted to stay at Refugio Gualcelmo in Rabanal del Camino. This albergue is run by the UK Camino de Santiago society The Confraternity of St James (CSJ or Camino Pilgrim as now branded). It was just 16km, so I decided I was able to add in 2.5km divert at the beginning to pass through Castrillo de los Polvazares – a totally restored Maragato village. The Maragato are a proud people who are thought to have settled in the area either as Phoenician or Berbers over a thousand years ago. They were famous for being muleteers, the medieval equivalent of HGV drivers, albeit with caravans of mules. From there it was a gradual 15km stroll up to Rabanal, all the time aware of the mountains, that await in next few days, closing in front of me.

Finally – remember the Italian that had walked from Milan… well today at CSJ Gualcelmo there is a chap from Belfast who decided to walk from home and has reached Rabanal. On his way he met up with another who has walked from Bristol. And Maggie, the hospitalero here is celebrating her 30th anniversary at the Albergue.

A Peregrino’s rucksack

Obviously the most common feature is the bag, be it rucksack or small daybag. Yes, a small daybag, as some people send their bag on ahead of them and travel light.

On the bag is the symbol that unites each and every one of us on the Camino. From those starting off from St Jean Pied de Port, those crossing the Meseta, to those travelling through Galicia, to those entering the Praza de Obradoiro in Santiago. Almost every backpack has a scallop shell dangling from it.

There are also many sandals and flip flops that swing from the bags of pilgrims in front. As the day/Camino goes on, the sandals are often replaced by the walking shoes – peregrinos will do anything to try and fool their feet that they are not really tired or sore.

Some fly the flag of their nationality on their bag. This is particularly popular with the pilgrims from Eastern European countries – I have seen fluttering flags from Croatia and many from Slovenia. Slovenians are obviously very proud of their young nation.

There are also sew on/iron on badges from around the globe, as well as various Camino badges including of course, flecha amarillo. And a wide variety of Camino pins.

Sticks, or walking poles that are not being used either dangle precariously or are neatly tucked into each side of the bag. The bungee cord strapping on most bags helps to store all matter of stuff the pilgrim deems too important to put in the bag. Most often this is food, water or discarded clothing. The irony is that it cannot be reached without removing the bag, so the item could be stored within!

The most useful parts of my bag are the two tardis-like compartments on the waist strap. These allow me to store phone and emergency charger unit on one side. Inhaler, coin purse, lip balm, and tissues on the other.

As for today’s walk… a relatively short day at just 23km but one of the prettiest of the Camino for me. Maybe this was as I’d finally left the Meseta, so the sight of more than a single tree, some greenery and some bends in the trail were almost too exciting for words. I passed through the very small city of Astorga, complete with it’s ornate cathedral, a few other splendid churches and it’s star turn – Gaudi’s Episcopal Palace. Then just a few kilometres on to Murias de Rechivaldo where I am staying at another amazing albergue.

Tomorrow begins the uphill section again as we move into the spiritual third of the Camino… more on that another daily blog post.

Roncesvalles – like a pilgrim Disneyland!

Today, all that slog yesterday seems a grand idea, feeling a little smug even. Hopping in the Express Burricot shuttle up to begin #MyLongWalk2019 for real was a masterstroke. Already having those hellish-steep 8km done and setting off fresh from #Orisson felt wonderful.

From the albergue up to the frontier at Col Lepoeder the hike was everything I imagined and hoped Camino would be. Amazing vistas, swooping eagles, kites and vultures, typical barren Pyreneen mountain tops, shady, dense ancient woodlands and good-spirited peregrinos – Buen Camino all!

Then after 3 hours of uphill on roads, through meadows and clambering up rocky scree – the spires of Roncesvalles Monastery appeared far below me … like the Magic Kingdom … in the distance. All turreted and mythical looking, as if some medieval architect had the amazing foresight to create a place every Peregrino would want to stay in. It really is an amazing place, all historic and gothic looking from outside, flatpacked ikea-like functionality inside. But the people are what make the place, pilgrims and hospitaleros all mingling happily. BUEN CAMINO

Finally, for today … nothing beat a refreshing natural foot spa … a tan line is also starting to show!

Hasta mañana

St Jean Pied de Port

This morning it is already 27° at 930 and it is expected to hit 41/42 mid-afternoon. So I plan to spend most of my day sitting under a tree snoozing contently! I’m sure it will actually be spent mostly sweating profusely! Will also go down to the river and check that out, it looks refreshing but I bet it’s freezing!

My first albergue is here in #SJPP which is a bit like one of the London rail stations, everyone going somewhere, or arriving from somewhere. The town bustles, but with pilgrims and day-trippers rather than commuters. It’s traders have all the things you could possibly need for Camino, though not sure how bad your planning would need to be to have to buy boots or shoes here! I had a wonderful communal vegetarian meal with the other 15 or so pilgrims staying here … some were mid-camino, and had started in France or Switzerland. Some like me were starting here in #SJPP and one, from San Sebastian, had finished his – walking 40 days from Puy-en-Velay in eastern France. Even though most are starting today I’m sure our paths will cross again in the next few days. Pilgrims from Canada, Korea, France, Germany, Italy, Poland and Spain. Incredible. From the first night I am already beginning to get what #Camino is all about.

Today is last day of relaxing before #MyLongWalk2019 begins. If the walk from the village to this albergue (which is the Camino de Santiago) is anything to go by, tomorrow may be brutal! For now I’m just able enjoy the views!