shoes – My Long Walk 2019

Invasion of the Decathlon pilgrims

Say what you like about the masses of peregrinos that join the Camino at Sarria but they have certainly spent a huge amount of money in Decathlon in order to complete their 118km hike. There can’t be many small rucksacks left in the stores in Spain at this time of year. Almost everyone carrying one has the tell tale squiggle and Quecha emblazoned the nylon backpack.

Before I continue with this post, I confess I am walking in Decathlon shorts everyday on Camino, I also use their walking poles and one of my three pairs of socks are also their brand. I also possess, as does almost every pilgrim I have encountered at albergues, one of their microfibre, quick-drying towels. The washing lines are jam-packed with a multi-coloured patchwork of them, green ones, orange, real, blue purple, black, red, pink, yellow – there seems to be no end to combination of towel and trim. They dry very quickly, but are not great at their primary purpose of drying the body! This great multi-coloured Quecha invasion was evident from the moment I walked out of Sarria on Sunday. The bright array of coloured backpack rain covers was a sight to behold. They stretched as far as the eye could see. Moving like a giant, sponsored, multi-coloured worm into the mist and rain.

Today was the same, this time, as it was dry, the bags were uncovered and the colours slightly toned down. But I estimate over 75% of bags too small to have walked further than from Sarria were Quecha on the Camino today. There was also a huge proportion of these Sarria 118km pilgrims wearing Quecha or other Decathlon branded clothing and shoes. The sportswear megolith is taking over the Camino.

As for today’s walk … nice to be back to dry walking. It was certainly the coolest day of my Camino thus far, the sun broke through occasionally but the warmth was checked by a chilly wind. I kept my arm sleeves on all day. It is supposed to be heating up again through the week. Scenery wise today was like walking in the West Country – sometimes almost moorland, others times pine forest but all the time very, very green with lots of heather and gorse. Some horreos, crossed the rio Miño, which further west becomes the border with Portugal, a weird tortoise and an abandoned Bianchi : but most of all, all day ‘Tourismegrinos’ everywhere. Again queues for coffee were mind blowing compared to previous 3 and a half weeks. Very pretty little albergue for tonight – Paso de Formiga – Just 12 beds and not a bunk in sight!

34km tomorrow to get to Arzua, famous for it’s cheese apparently. Regarding the walk itself, just for some perspective, if I had walked north from Reading I would now be past Aberdeen!

A Peregrino’s rucksack

Obviously the most common feature is the bag, be it rucksack or small daybag. Yes, a small daybag, as some people send their bag on ahead of them and travel light.

On the bag is the symbol that unites each and every one of us on the Camino. From those starting off from St Jean Pied de Port, those crossing the Meseta, to those travelling through Galicia, to those entering the Praza de Obradoiro in Santiago. Almost every backpack has a scallop shell dangling from it.

There are also many sandals and flip flops that swing from the bags of pilgrims in front. As the day/Camino goes on, the sandals are often replaced by the walking shoes – peregrinos will do anything to try and fool their feet that they are not really tired or sore.

Some fly the flag of their nationality on their bag. This is particularly popular with the pilgrims from Eastern European countries – I have seen fluttering flags from Croatia and many from Slovenia. Slovenians are obviously very proud of their young nation.

There are also sew on/iron on badges from around the globe, as well as various Camino badges including of course, flecha amarillo. And a wide variety of Camino pins.

Sticks, or walking poles that are not being used either dangle precariously or are neatly tucked into each side of the bag. The bungee cord strapping on most bags helps to store all matter of stuff the pilgrim deems too important to put in the bag. Most often this is food, water or discarded clothing. The irony is that it cannot be reached without removing the bag, so the item could be stored within!

The most useful parts of my bag are the two tardis-like compartments on the waist strap. These allow me to store phone and emergency charger unit on one side. Inhaler, coin purse, lip balm, and tissues on the other.

As for today’s walk… a relatively short day at just 23km but one of the prettiest of the Camino for me. Maybe this was as I’d finally left the Meseta, so the sight of more than a single tree, some greenery and some bends in the trail were almost too exciting for words. I passed through the very small city of Astorga, complete with it’s ornate cathedral, a few other splendid churches and it’s star turn – Gaudi’s Episcopal Palace. Then just a few kilometres on to Murias de Rechivaldo where I am staying at another amazing albergue.

Tomorrow begins the uphill section again as we move into the spiritual third of the Camino… more on that another daily blog post.

Not long now!

As I write this the big countdown number on the blog says 36 days till #MyLongWalk2019 – it only seems like yesterday I booked my flight to Biarritz – booked on January 9th! In fact, it doesn’t seem that long ago that I decided that the end of July 2019 was the time to set off – I think I finally committed after my last cycle trip abroad last July!

June has been a chance to get some walking in – and finally decide on which of the three pairs of shoes I have been ‘wearing in’ I will actually walk the Camino in. More of that later!

Back at the end of May I went for 2 days walking in Belgium with the aim of finding the grave of Sydney Henry George (see previous post Practice and a very personal pilgrimage). The Commonwealth War Graves of Ypres (Ieper) and the surrounding Flanders countryside are some of the most beautiful, yet thought-provoking, places I have ever been. They are also places for contemplation and gratitude for the greatest of sacrifice that allows people like me to go on Camino. I found Private George’s name on the Tyne Cot Memorial and laid a small stone from our garden at the base of the panel his name appears on. I was also privileged and humbled to attend – on two occasions – The Last Post ceremony at the Menen Gate in Ieper.

Tyne Cot gate

Tyne Cot

Sydney Henry George RIP

The Last Post, Menen Gate, Ieper

After allowing my feet a couple of weeks to recover (the 5° wedges given to me to insert into my shoes by the podiatrist gave me incredibly sore heels – we have dropped down to 3° now and all seems fine!) I headed out on a hike on another of the great ancient routes that are local to Reading, The Ridgeway. A beautiful walk from Goring to Didcot via the chalk downland trail, then down to Blewbury before train home.

This past weekend I managed a double header – walking both Saturday and Sunday – although both were a little shy of 20km! Firstly it was the latest leg of the St James Way trail with the ‘Reading peregrinos’ from Kings Worthy to Eastleigh via Winchester Cathedral, The Hospital of St Cross and the Itchen Way. A fine day out with surprise appearances from The Flying Scotsman, a Model T Ford and a Spitfire! Sunday was also spent walking a riverside trail – the Blackwater Valley Path from Shinfield to Crowthorne.

Finally, the shoe dilemma appears to have been resolved. It appears that the shoes that are most comfortable and create no hotspots, blisters or sore toes are my Hoka One One Challengers. These are actually running shoes but, as I have discovered on many forums, they are sworn by for many Camino veterans.