As for all pilgrims my documentary proof of walking from my start point to Santiago is my credencial – in effect a pilgrim passport. The credencial is then shown to the Pilgrim Office in Santiago, who then issue the Compostela, the official certificate for completing a Camino de Santiago.
The basic idea is that at least once a day you get your credencial stamped with una sello – a stamp. The most obvious place to do this is where you stay. Indeed most hospitaleros ask for it along with your ‘real’ passport when you check in. Most municipal and parochial albergues will only allow those carrying a credencial to stay. It is also possible to get your pilgrim passport stamped at police stations, post offices, bars, restaurants, many stores, town halls … in fact, pretty much everywhere on the Camino has it’s own sello. Some of these are remarkably intricate and illustrate something about the town they are in. Others are very simple and verging on the dull! But it becomes a bit of an obsession and pretty much everyone ends up having to extend their credencial. Fortunately I brought two with me but will definitely need a third. One stamp a day is ok until you reach Sarria – 100km to Santiago – then to get your Compostela – you are required to get two each day. Apparently this is to deter people from using motorised transport to get their certificate!
My first stamp was actually from St James’s Church in Reading! They say Camino starts from your front door.
Below are my top 10 sellos so far! As well as a little personal viewpoint on them. They are in chronological order not order of preference.
Orisson – the first stamp on my Camino de Santiago.
The Abbey at Illartz – a renovation project – even in the Pyreneen mist it was easy to see why it was a labour of love.
Eunate – as this was my first, and will be the only, detour off Camino to see something from guidebook.
El Cantero, Mañeru- just love that it is a shoe.
Oasis Hogar de Monjardin – just the most amazing place to stay. Dutch-run and totally charming. The salt-water foot bath was so thoughtful.
Convento Santa Elena Najera – divine pastries and elegant sello.
Bar in Azofra – the Galicia cross reminds me of Tarta de Santiago.
Albergue Ave de Paso, Grañon – loving the bird theme, plus I had a whole dorm to myself so no snorers or 4.30 wakers!
Panaderia Las Cuevas, Atapuerca – amazing empanadas atun. Plus a stamp with bakery goods on!
Hijos de Caridad, Rabe de Las Calzadas – lovely little chapel with sweet old lady who desperately wanted me to have a medallion with Jesus on it.
Monasterio Santa Clara, Carrion de los Condes – the nuns, the bells, a sello with the convent, a scallop shell and the cross of Santiago on it, what more could you want…
PS. Today I walked past the halfway mark and more importantly for me I’m nearly through The Meseta … I can see some hills ahead and they be greener!
My Long Walk 2019 