cathedral – My Long Walk 2019

Last Post- km0

Today I offer some statistics for #MyLongWalk2019

1 – French region walked through

1 – working monastery stayed in

2 – number of countries walked in

2 – number of achy feet

2 – number of hostals stayed in

3.7 – average speed in km/h for #MyLongWalk2019 including all stops

4 – municipal albergues stayed in

4 – Spanish autonomous regions walked through

5 – 3* or 4* hotels stayed in

7 – Spanish provincias walked through

10 – number of kms in taxi to avoid Burgos airport and industrial estates

20 – number of albergues privado stayed in

28 – number of km missed on day I was too ill to walk.

30 – total number of days walked

34 – total number of pilgrim nationalities I walked with

108 – total number of sellos in credencial

118 – number of Camino hierro photos taken (drain covers)

200 – plus 22 minutes is total hours walked

738.87 – total km walked

1,164 – total number of photos taken on #MyLongWalk2019

13,029 – total amount of vertical ascent in metres

1,165,635 – total number of steps walked on #MyLongWalk2019

As for today’s walk… very short. Into city past the random starfish and into an empty Praza do Obradoiro. Later it was packed. Picked up Compostela. Went back to Albergue and lay down after a shower. 4 hours later I woke. Unscheduled siesta. Body obviously needed it.

That’s all folks!

A Peregrino’s rucksack

Obviously the most common feature is the bag, be it rucksack or small daybag. Yes, a small daybag, as some people send their bag on ahead of them and travel light.

On the bag is the symbol that unites each and every one of us on the Camino. From those starting off from St Jean Pied de Port, those crossing the Meseta, to those travelling through Galicia, to those entering the Praza de Obradoiro in Santiago. Almost every backpack has a scallop shell dangling from it.

There are also many sandals and flip flops that swing from the bags of pilgrims in front. As the day/Camino goes on, the sandals are often replaced by the walking shoes – peregrinos will do anything to try and fool their feet that they are not really tired or sore.

Some fly the flag of their nationality on their bag. This is particularly popular with the pilgrims from Eastern European countries – I have seen fluttering flags from Croatia and many from Slovenia. Slovenians are obviously very proud of their young nation.

There are also sew on/iron on badges from around the globe, as well as various Camino badges including of course, flecha amarillo. And a wide variety of Camino pins.

Sticks, or walking poles that are not being used either dangle precariously or are neatly tucked into each side of the bag. The bungee cord strapping on most bags helps to store all matter of stuff the pilgrim deems too important to put in the bag. Most often this is food, water or discarded clothing. The irony is that it cannot be reached without removing the bag, so the item could be stored within!

The most useful parts of my bag are the two tardis-like compartments on the waist strap. These allow me to store phone and emergency charger unit on one side. Inhaler, coin purse, lip balm, and tissues on the other.

As for today’s walk… a relatively short day at just 23km but one of the prettiest of the Camino for me. Maybe this was as I’d finally left the Meseta, so the sight of more than a single tree, some greenery and some bends in the trail were almost too exciting for words. I passed through the very small city of Astorga, complete with it’s ornate cathedral, a few other splendid churches and it’s star turn – Gaudi’s Episcopal Palace. Then just a few kilometres on to Murias de Rechivaldo where I am staying at another amazing albergue.

Tomorrow begins the uphill section again as we move into the spiritual third of the Camino… more on that another daily blog post.

Iglesia

The Camino is, even in it’s modern format, a religious pilgrimage. Catholics have been making the trip to Santiago for thousands of years. More recently the Camino has been attracting pilgrims from all countries, faiths and backgrounds. Many, like me, do not follow any religious beliefs, however even the most fervent non-believers cannot be impressed by the monumental religious buildings that are seen as you walk along ‘The Way’.

From the humblest, tiny chapel and ermitage to large parochial churches to the ostentatious majesty of the great cathedrals. In addition there a a great many statues, memorials and even ‘graffiti’ that are religious.

Small chapels and ermitage also dot the Camino. Some are still used, others left for pilgrims to visit and often leave memorabilia (this is something I gave not been able to get my head round). Some are no bigger than a cupboard, others just isolated in nature so no regular worshippers.

Each town on the Camino seems to have a church (many have more than one) which is much larger than needed to fit it’s population in. All are incredibly ornate from outside and pretty spectacular inside. All welcome pilgrims and most have a sello for the credencial. Then of course there or the massive Cathedrals, so far I have passed four cathedrals and have photographed two of them – Logroño and Burgos.

Tomorrow I head for the town of Carrion de los Condes which has no less than four monasteries/convents, one of which I will be staying in.

Finally here are a small selection of the many fascinating churches I have passed so far.

Bayonne arrivé and Shenanigans (almost)

After over 12 months of preparation I am finally on my way. A hassle-free flight from Gatwick, albeit with a upgrade into the no-kids lounge as it was bedlam in the terminal, saw me arrive in Biarritz mid-afternoon yesterday. Bayonne, where then train to St Jean Pied de Port leave from, is a old city that Lisa and I have visited before. I really like it. So before I head off for #MyLongWalk2019 I thought I’d get my credencial stamped at the cathedral.

However, and this seems to happen quite often during my travels, there is growing excitement here in Bayonne. It appears that I have arrived (and will fortunately leave) just a day or two before Fêtes Bayonne. The tell tale signs are all around. Last minute roadworks, bar refits, stage construction. Red and White must be the colours! Temporary bars and there accompanying toilet blocks, banners and posters everywhere, the fun fair has arrived this morning and the souvenir stalls are trading. Usually Lisa and I arrive mid-shenanigans, into total chaos, totally unsuspecting. I’m glad I’m moving on, although it would be fun, as day 1 of Camino with that in my system would be disastrous.