Right now I am halfway across the Meseta. This is a huge swathe of high plain that runs from Burgos in the east to past Leon in the west. Approximately 900 meters above sea level for the most part, it is perhaps the least loved stretch of the Camino. Having walked across this expanse of wheat, sunflowers and windfarms, big fields, big skies and dry dusty trails, it is easy to see why some peregrinos decide to either take a bus or train directly from Burgos to Leon, or take a local bus or taxi for part of one of their days.
Those who chose to skip this remarkable 4-5 days walking really to miss out on some incredible vistas. The sunrises are amazing. The very rustic, if isolated, villages and towns really only exist today due to passing trade of the Camino. It is like stepping back in time to, I would presume, the life my grandparents would have lived – if they were Spanish. Some of the machinery I have seem is vintage indeed.
As it is August, most of the cereal crops have been harvested and, when made into flour, contribute to my morning tostada. Only sunflowers and a few asparagus fields split the wheat. No real livestock to speak of. Just lots of raptors and storks. And loads of mice or shrews early in the morning.
Yes it tough on the mind, as well as the feet. But I am pleased to say I’m showing the Meseta some love, a bit of reciprocation would be mighty pleasing.
I did however have all my laundry, two days worth, plus swim shorts and towel. It went away scrunched up in drybag and returned, a few hours later, perfectly folded on a chair outside my room. Silently delivered by a nun who must not be seen. €6 well spent
Today I am in Palencia, having left Burgos yesterday afternoon. Leon next.
My Long Walk 2019 