Since leaving St Jean Pied de Port to walk my Camino de Santiago I have been amazed how many nations peregrinos come to Spain from. Each has their own reason for walking. Many are only able to do a short section due to work or life constraints. But everyone I have encountered has been an outstanding ambassador for their nation, and humanity.
English is the common language of the Camino, Spanish – it’s native tongue. But it has been a delight to walk along listening to Korean, Italian and French being spoken. These have been the most common other languages.
So far I spoken with, or walked with pilgrims from all these countries.
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Another long, tiring day today but rewarding in many ways. I have finally put the Meseta behind me and things are beginning to look greener again and lots more storks.
Another thing that pleased Iñigo greatly, was passing the 300km to go waymarker. Made the Santiago 790 sign seem a distant memory – of course the sign is distant now!
And best of all, tonight’s Albergue – Verde in Hospital de Orbigo was incredible. A donativo dinner of organic vegetarian food all made in house, and mostly sourced from their own garden.
UPDATE three more flags to add to the United Nations of the Camino
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Ecuador, Belgium and Malta
UPDATE #2 on walk from Arzua to Monte de Gozo I spoke with a couple pushing their tandem up a steep track. They were from Maracaibo on Venezuela. 🇻🇪
The basic idea is that at least once a day you get your credencial stamped with una sello – a stamp. The most obvious place to do this is where you stay. Indeed most hospitaleros ask for it along with your ‘real’ passport when you check in. Most municipal and parochial albergues will only allow those carrying a credencial to stay. It is also possible to get your pilgrim passport stamped at police stations, post offices, bars, restaurants, many stores, town halls … in fact, pretty much everywhere on the Camino has it’s own sello. Some of these are remarkably intricate and illustrate something about the town they are in. Others are very simple and verging on the dull! But it becomes a bit of an obsession and pretty much everyone ends up having to extend their credencial. Fortunately I brought two with me but will definitely need a third. One stamp a day is ok until you reach Sarria – 100km to Santiago – then to get your Compostela – you are required to get two each day. Apparently this is to deter people from using motorised transport to get their certificate!
My first stamp was actually from St James’s Church in Reading! They say Camino starts from your front door.
Below are my top 10 sellos so far! As well as a little personal viewpoint on them. They are in chronological order not order of preference.
The Abbey at Illartz – a renovation project – even in the Pyreneen mist it was easy to see why it was a labour of love.
Eunate – as this was my first, and will be the only, detour off Camino to see something from guidebook.
El Cantero, Mañeru- just love that it is a shoe.
Oasis Hogar de Monjardin – just the most amazing place to stay. Dutch-run and totally charming. The salt-water foot bath was so thoughtful.
Convento Santa Elena Najera – divine pastries and elegant sello.
Bar in Azofra – the Galicia cross reminds me of Tarta de Santiago.
Albergue Ave de Paso, Grañon – loving the bird theme, plus I had a whole dorm to myself so no snorers or 4.30 wakers!
Panaderia Las Cuevas, Atapuerca – amazing empanadas atun. Plus a stamp with bakery goods on!
Most peregrinos decide to stay in the villages either side of San Bol – Hornillos del Camino or Hontanas – they really are missing something very special and, for me, unique so far on Camino. Our hospitalera, Lourdes, welcomed each and everyone of us as though we were her first guest of the summer. She then prepared us a magnificent salad starter and chicken paella, followed by a fantastic ‘creme brulee’ style dessert.
Today was the first day on the Meseta. As expected there were harvested corn fields as far as the eye could see, the Camino trail disappearing miles ahead of the horizon, vultures circling (as if waiting for a expiring pilgrim. And of course it was hot. I’d better get used to it – it’s a long way to Leon yet!
Here is a link to see where I have walked today. 
My Long Walk 2019 