We’ve all been there, the village or town that barely gets a mention in the guide or online, but absolutely knocks it out of the park. One of these places that springs to mind from my previous travels was Aviles. On the map, just a port on Asturias coast, the insignificant third point of the Gijon-Oviedo-Aviles triangle. The guide books could not be ‘wronger’ – Aviles is a hidden gem and I whole-heartedly urge every one of you reading this to visit there. Disclaimer – I am not being paid by Ayuntamiento de Aviles, however I am happy to be salaried if they wish! A wonderful old town jam-packed with trendy bars and restaurants serving modern Spanish cuisine at it’s best. Anyway, coming back from Asturias to the Camino, tonight I am staying in one such place. My guide book mentions it fleetingly, mostly extolling it’s Fuente and the healing powers it allegedly possesses. What they miss is the whole point of the place. San Bol is a place where there are no distractions. The Fuente is marvellous, if freezing cold, and should be raved about. However, what really makes its special is it’s remoteness and lack of modernity. Sitting by the Fuente with my feet absorbing it’s ‘medicinal powers’ may be the closest I get to what a medieval peregrino would have actually done on Camino.
Most peregrinos decide to stay in the villages either side of San Bol – Hornillos del Camino or Hontanas – they really are missing something very special and, for me, unique so far on Camino. Our hospitalera, Lourdes, welcomed each and everyone of us as though we were her first guest of the summer. She then prepared us a magnificent salad starter and chicken paella, followed by a fantastic ‘creme brulee’ style dessert.
Today was the first day on the Meseta. As expected there were harvested corn fields as far as the eye could see, the Camino trail disappearing miles ahead of the horizon, vultures circling (as if waiting for a expiring pilgrim. And of course it was hot. I’d better get used to it – it’s a long way to Leon yet!
Here is a link to see where I have walked today. https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/user.do?id=4856669
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My Long Walk 2019 