statues – My Long Walk 2019

The Camino is, even in it’s modern format, a religious pilgrimage. Catholics have been making the trip to Santiago for thousands of years. More recently the Camino has been attracting pilgrims from all countries, faiths and backgrounds. Many, like me, do not follow any religious beliefs, however even the most fervent non-believers cannot be impressed by the monumental religious buildings that are seen as you walk along ‘The Way’.

From the humblest, tiny chapel and ermitage to large parochial churches to the ostentatious majesty of the great cathedrals. In addition there a a great many statues, memorials and even ‘graffiti’ that are religious.

Small chapels and ermitage also dot the Camino. Some are still used, others left for pilgrims to visit and often leave memorabilia (this is something I gave not been able to get my head round). Some are no bigger than a cupboard, others just isolated in nature so no regular worshippers.

Each town on the Camino seems to have a church (many have more than one) which is much larger than needed to fit it’s population in. All are incredibly ornate from outside and pretty spectacular inside. All welcome pilgrims and most have a sello for the credencial. Then of course there or the massive Cathedrals, so far I have passed four cathedrals and have photographed two of them – Logroño and Burgos.

Tomorrow I head for the town of Carrion de los Condes which has no less than four monasteries/convents, one of which I will be staying in.

Finally here are a small selection of the many fascinating churches I have passed so far.

For most people in the UK, the prospect of spending a relaxing summer Sunday afternoon at the local swimming baths would make the toes curl. I have to agree, it is not something I would consider. Just the thought …. yuk! However, here in Spain, I am a real advocate of the Piscina Municipal. I would encourage all peregrinos to seek one out and use it. The one in the village of Sorbas in Almeria, where we spend some time, is beautiful, clean and relaxing. The ones I used in Girona last summer while cycling were extremely nice, as were those I have used in Picos de Europa and the Pyrenees. The format is always pretty much the same. A pool surrounded by lawns, plenty of shade either from trees, pergola or parasols. There will be clean and well-maintained changing rooms. There will be a bar or cafeteria serving drinks and simple food and snacks. The only think that differs is the size of the installation. The one today in Burgos had a maximum capacity of 1200 people. I imagine there were about half that there today at the busiest time. Again as we are in Spain, there was a mass exodus around 2.30 as the thought of lunch beckoned. Some families and groups brought picnics, old men sat at tables – playing cards, old ladies fanned themselves frantically in the shaded areas, small children tirelessly jumped in and climbed out of the pool. Everyone was content! So why is it so different to back in Britain? Obviously the weather helps a great deal. It is very different to our standard 25-meter indoor pools. Being outside in 30° sunshine makes everything seem better. The other factor is a sense of civic pride which helps to ensure that the facilities remain excellent for all to use. There was no smoking at all, no litter, the pool was immaculate, no floating hair (swim hats mandatory), lifeguards patrolled the pool and the surrounding areas and made sure there was no dangerous or anti-social behaviour.This pool is one that the Burgos ayuntamiento provide for it’s residents to use, as well as allowing visitors like me the opportunity to spend a relaxing afternoon for the princely sum of €4. It is open from 11am till 9pm and you can stay as long as you like. I am really looking forward to finding a few more, hopefully less busy (but it is Sunday), as I continue the Camino.No walking today, and OMG did my feet love it! I am sure I will feel some benefit tomorrow. I have of course ‘walked’ around the marvellous centre of Burgos. So here are a few snaps of some of it’s outstanding architecture and monuments.Tomorrow I’m leaving the city bustle fore something very different, a hermitage about 1km from the Camino which sleeps bad feeds just 12 peregrinos. Just before I sign off, yesterday, on the last climb up to that magnificent cross and view of Burgos and the Meseta, there was a brief reappearance of fossilized reptilian underfoot.